Post your Globuscope 4x5 Pictures Here

Here are some test pics with my Globuscope 4x5 with the 65 JML scanned on a Epson 4990. I used Tmax 100 developed d76 1:1 @ 72 degrees, in a jobo for 10 minutes. Don't know why I have some light marks on the scan,look towards the bottom of the first one, on the second it is in the middle and upper right corner.
The Tmax on the first two pics was sitting in the film holders for over 6 months, I don't know if that has something to do with it. The last one I just took the Tmax out of the box and used it the same day.
I have more to come in velvia and fuji 160s.

Scott,

These are such a wonderful surprise. I'd love to know whether or not this was with the original plastic ground glass or didi you zone focus? I found that mine is a tad concave.

Asher

Scott,

This is my favorite of your current offerings.




It really takes advantage of the extreme wide angle of the 65mm JML lens. So what do you think the aperture might have been? Do you think there's more highlight detail to be gotten if one scans just for the highlights of the clouds?


Asher

Hi,

Yes I looked at the negative, the epson seems to blow out the highlights. I replaced my concave plastic with a ground glass I bought off of ebay. It is still hard to focus with the JML lens, I might invest in a maxwell screen. I just set the helicoil focus at infinity. I notice when I tighten the knob to lock the helicol it makes a very slight shift in the lens. I don't know if this affects the focusing or not.

Right now I have 2 kodak ektachrome negs hanging to dry in my shower. I will post them soon. They are expired, but to me, they turned out excellent. Processed with expired kodak e-6 kit.

I used aperatures f 16, f 22 and f 32. I didn't take notes. Next time.

Scott

scott bye said:

Hi,

Yes I looked at the negative, the epson seems to blow out the highlights. I replaced my concave plastic with a ground glass I bought off of ebay. It is still hard to focus with the JML lens, I might invest in a maxwell screen. I just set the helicoil focus at infinity. I notice when I tighten the knob to lock the helicol it makes a very slight shift in the lens. I don't know if this affects the focusing or not.

Right now I have 2 kodak ektachrome negs hanging to dry in my shower. I will post them soon. They are expired, but to me, they turned out excellent. Processed with expired kodak e-6 kit.

I used aperatures f 16, f 22 and f 32. I didn't take notes. Next time.

Scott

Click to expand...

I'm going to contact bill Maxwell and see if a screen is feasible. I also have another globuscope i plan to put a lens with a rotating focus.

Asher

Cool let me know here is another picture. Epson keeps blowing out the highlights. When I get my other ones back I will send a couple out for a Tango Drum Scan.

scott bye said:

Cool let me know here is another picture. Epson keeps blowing out the highlights. When I get my other ones back I will send a couple out for a Tango Drum Scan.

Click to expand...

This is so rich! I think it's even worth investing in an Epson 750. Maybe a used one could be available. Your pics are that good.

I have contacted Bill Maxwell about the screen. The special wide angle ones should really allow focus to the edges. I plan to send him my camera. Would you be interested in getting a screen too?

Asher

Yes I would be interested, but I am going to have to wait for a while due to medical bills. Can you send me a price of what he charges you? I had one for my Shen Hao and it was above 300.00. I want to make sure it is very bright, it is hard for me to focus/compose on sunset shots.

scott bye said:

Yes I would be interested, but I am going to have to wait for a while due to medical bills. Can you send me a price of what he charges you? I had one for my Shen Hao and it was above 300.00. I want to make sure it is very bright, it is hard for me to focus/compose on sunset shots.

Click to expand...

Scott, I plan to review the 3 grades and see if I can document the effect on viewing in dim light. I just am not sure I could afford the more sophisticated options.

Asher

Globus Focusing

I seem to remember that the first thing that I did back in 1980 was to put in a Calumet fresnel/gg.
It was also plastic and it is working to this day.
The light in your images is from film sitting in the holders.

Thanks for the info Grant.

Here is another picture. Scanned Epson 4990, processed in photoshop, Kodak E100VS.

Splendid composition with that 65mm lens really doing its work in getting the forground foliage as well as the entire waterfall in good focus. Bravo!

I can'r wait to get my ground glass Maxwellized!

Asher

scott bye said:

Epson keeps blowing out the highlights.

Click to expand...

You may want to try vuescan. If I remember correctly, that software has a function to run multiple scans at different settings, thereby improving dynamic range (a bit like HDR).

Hi I am using Vuescan, didn't work too good with multiscan. This one was done with Epson Software and processed in photoshop to try to match the slide. Velvia 100 or Provia 100 ? Globuscope 4x5. Tripod.
I compared this to my Canon 5D with the 17-40 and the quality of the Canon comes very close up to a 39 inch x 26 inch image. I uprezzed the canon 5d file to come close to the scanned size of the epson. I am sure a tango drum scan would do better. I used the better scanning holder.


Here is the Canon 5d w/17-40 file.

scott bye said:

Hi I am using Vuescan, didn't work too good with multiscan. This one was done with Epson Software and processed in photoshop to try to match the slide. Velvia 100 or Provia 100 ? Globuscope 4x5. Tripod.
I compared this to my Canon 5D with the 17-40 and the quality of the Canon comes very close up to a 39 inch x 26 inch image. I uprezzed the canon 5d file to come close to the scanned size of the epson. I am sure a tango drum scan would do better. I used the better scanning holder.

Click to expand...

Here is the Canon 5d w/17-40 file.


Scot

there looks to be enough data in the top image - just need to work on the mid tones and dark bitties down below and the colour. half way there i guess.

cheers

Scott,

These are so impressive. What was your final focal length for the Canon lens and have you printed them both yet? That's going to be interesting so see what people think of the two site by side, even 24" wide!!

Asher

Asher Kelman said:

What was your final focal length for the Canon lens

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From the exifs: 17mm. Also: the Canon image is a 30s pose, which explains why the waves and cloud details disappeared.

Hi Asher,

I did not print them yet, I might use my local CostCo, they are one of the CostCo's that have printers that care about the product. They say a lot of pros use them. I used the lee big stopper for the canon image, my first time trying it out. I was thinking about sending this one in for a Tango drum scan just to compare the epson scan to it. The shadows are hard for me to pull out in photoshop and when looking at the slide, I can see very good shadow detail with a flashlight held up to it.

I just wish there was a better sunset for this pic. I hope to go up north again, but it is hard because of funds. I also feel more comfortable using my Canon because I know I got the shot. I am mad because I opened four of my film holders only to find out they weren't loaded with film and I missed some good shots. This is the only reason why I hate large format.

When I use large format I feel uncomfortable with the light meter. I use the Sekonic 758D w/spot and notice I getting readings all over the place, so I just guess the best reading. I am still confused when I put a Heliopan polarizer and filters in the front of the lens because I know this will change the stops. Still confused this way, so what I do is hold the polarizer in front of the meter , take reading and then put it back on. I have been reading about 1/3 stop. 1/2 stop, etc. but we don't have this on our shutters. I notice on my slides with the sunset shots the sky is the right exposure but the foreground ended up being too dark. I also have to figure in reciprocity failure and that can be a pain.

On your globuscope where you put in the film holder, do you have light leak material? My holder sits on the metal. I don't know if this may contribute to a possible light leak.



Scott

light leak

Make sure that the rib on the film holder fits the slot in the camera back. If it does not then you will have a leak. My Betterlight Scanning back does not have a rib. It fits flush and it is light tight but you do have to be careful.

Here is the Scan with the epson and a scan from the tango drum scanner at 8bit. I am getting a 16bit scan soon.

The tango definitely has better shadow detail and more true to the slide color. I just did a slight levels adjustment to the tango scan.

Now I need to know how big I should print it, what paper to print it on and who to get a print from.

I can post more detailed pics if you want to see a closer comparison

If you study the two pics carefully, it appears that they are scanned at a slightly different angle.

scott bye said:

Here is the Scan with the epson and a scan from the tango drum scanner at 8bit. I am getting a 16bit scan soon.

The tango definitely has better shadow detail and more true to the slide color. I just did a slight levels adjustment to the tango scan.

Now I need to know how big I should print it, what paper to print it on and who to get a print from.

I can post more detailed pics if you want to see a closer comparison

Epson 4990 scan at 64RGBI @ 2400 dpi

Heidelberg Tango Drum Scan

Click to expand...

Scott,

This is getting so beautiful and convinces me that unless you can learn to do better with the Epson oct else get something marvelous from an Epson 750, going Tango for just what you need to print is the way to go. This method has given you a superlative file with delicate clouds. Take a note of Jerome's comments. We can all leaner from that. Long exposures remove subtle movement, so the fine and delicate wisps of vapor vanish in a smudge of relatively even exposure in the Canon shot. There should be no difficulty with a Canon DSLR from getting the scene if film can image it so well. Of course, this is 4x5 film!

Asher

Thanks for the comments Ashler, can't wait to see your pics. Let me know how the maxwell screen goes. I don't even want to mess with digital after viewing the drum scan. I can see texture on little rocks. They can debate over in the forums all day about who has the most mega pixels while we film photographers actually are out in nature taking pictures.

A film photographer that I follow is Ben Horne. I think he went from digital to film and is shooting 8x10. Should check out his pics, he has a pic of Death Valley and talks about it in his youtube video. You can't see detail in the shadows of the film on a light board, but after he got it drum scanned they were noticeable.

Digital versus Film

Hi Scott,
Glad to see that you are using the camera that I sold you.
The Tango scan is marvellous...
Digital can be better at the high end. A DSLR will not give you the results that you are looking for.
To do that you need to spend an additional $40.000 USD...

The smoothness of tones and detail that you are getting with the JML 65 f:8 is great.

Quick?

Shooting yes.

Post processing...not so much!

Grant Kernan said:

Hi Scott,
Glad to see that you are using the camera that I sold you.
The Tango scan is marvellous...
Digital can be better at the high end. A DSLR will not give you the results that you are looking for.
To do that you need to spend an additional $40.000 USD...

The smoothness of tones and detail that you are getting with the JML 65 f:8 is great.

Quick?

Shooting yes.

Post processing...not so much!

Click to expand...

Grant,

The lens appears to be wonderful. what's a tad awkward is the movement of the lens in and out to focus. That could have been a helical mount and I wonder why it was not built that way. BTW, what on earth kind of lens design is that with a fixed rear element? Dod you a mange to research that?

Asher

Hi,

I did notice moving the lens in and out can be tricky especially when mounted on a tripod. I too would like to know if there is someway I could modify the lens to accommodate a helical focus mount.

I also would like to know if anyone has figured out a way to make a compact viewing box that would fit on the back of the globuscope so I don't have to worry about lugging around a dark cloth.

scott bye said:

Hi,

I did notice moving the lens in and out can be tricky especially when mounted on a tripod. I too would like to know if there is someway I could modify the lens to accommodate a helical focus mount.

I also would like to know if anyone has figured out a way to make a compact viewing box that would fit on the back of the globuscope so I don't have to worry about lugging around a dark cloth.

Click to expand...

Hi Scott,

I'm dealing with both issues. I'm getting prices on both those conversions and intend to go ahead. Do you or Grant see any + or - in having a Graflok back instead of the spring back?

I'll send my Chinese made 120/220 film back to see if there's any modification needed. Don't have the Sinar back to send but that would be good to be able to fit too.


Then we could post prices for these mods for everyone else who might want them. Do you want a fold up viewing box or one with an eye pieces too and even just enclose as a cone?

Asher

Hi, I tried to use a grafmatic back, but it wouldn't work. I am sure you know that is obvious. The graflock back might be too heavy for me because I hike to my photo ops. I think a cone with some sort of goggles on it to see the image clearly, but the collapsible might be better for hiking. I like the helical focus mount that is on the Fotoman. I don't know how a helical mount with work with our type of lens.

Scott

scott bye said:

I think a cone with some sort of goggles on it to see the image clearly, but the collapsible might be better for hiking. I like the helical focus mount that is on the Fotoman. I don't know how a helical mount with work with our type of lens.

Click to expand...

There's about 0.5" to 0.75" travel, so there should be enough room for a great helical conversion. anyway, I'll know soon enough.

Asher

JML

Hi Scott,
I have some information on the JML 65 mm lens design. I contacted JML and obtained the design specs for these lenses. I can send scans of the designs if you would like. Also I have the scans of the original camera manual.

The big deal is that the large element is inside the camera which left a smaller element in the light with a conservative 67mm filter thread.

BTW I used the camera from 1980 to 1995 and shot thousands of shots.
I cannibalized a Sinar wide angle bellows (took of one of the frames) and used the built in diopters in their viewing system.
I had little or no trouble focussing. Try twisting the push-pull mount as you push and pull instead of just pushing & pulling.
You can articulate better exact focus point...

Also news...

The rest of the old stock from Globuscope...& one more complete camera with JML 65mm MINTY $1600 USD so 1 is for sale which means U got a great deal.

ALSO They found a large number of good 4x5 plastic GG pieces. Although they would not offer warranty on the discounted cameras, they will ship out the replacement pieces for the cost of shipping and handling.