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F

Frank Doorhof

Guest
As some may know jump photography is one of my favorite subjects to do (actually everything that moves).

Here two jumps from Corine.


Corine_9_augustus_2008_%289_of_26%29.jpg


Corine_9_augustus_2008_%2819_of_26%29.jpg
 
nicolas claris

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Asher Kelman said:
Is this with the Leaf AFi digital back or else a Canon DSLR?

Asher
Click to expand...

I don't think it's a secret, it's all in the EXIF…

AFI 75S
1/160s
ƒ11
ISO 100

Curiously quite slow speed for shooting someone in motion… perhaps the EXIF is wrong… or faked?-)
 
B

Bart_van_der_Wolf

pro member
Nicolas Claris said:
Curiously quite slow speed for shooting someone in motion… perhaps the EXIF is wrong… or faked?-)
Click to expand...

Hi Nicolas,

In this specific field of studio photography it's all about the discharge duration fed to the flash-tubes. The camera's shuttertime is usually only set to clear the entire sensor during that discharge.

Bart
 
B

Bill Miller

New member
Using the Elinchrom Ranger AS (Battery pack) you can get a short duration of 1/5120 Second. This would freeze breaking glass, an arrow mid air, and surly any sports action such as jumping.
 
Asher Kelman

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Bill,

While we are talking about flash duration, could you mention the relative status of other competing units. I know for my humble Lumedyne packs, using multiple heads in a softbox, the duration is shorter than when with the same W/S power given to one single head in that softbox. Not that we want to stop arrows in mid air, but it's good to know that and how temp changes with power and flash duration.

Asher
 
B

Bill Miller

New member
Flash duration varies by manufacture. However color temp should not vary by changing the power settings. Typically Broncolor, Elinchrom, Hensel and ProFoto are considered the best. You will not see any noticable change in color temp using them.
 
F

Frank Doorhof

Guest
First shot has the correct colortemp, second shot has a warming filter (matched better with the background).

Flashduration is indeed in the strobes instead of shutterspeed, although with the AFi you can get a higher sync speed in the studio (Leaf shutter lenses) I still use the normal syncs like 1/125 or 1/160 in this case.

These were shot with the RX units by the way, not the A head on a ranger.
 
nicolas claris

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Bart_van_der_Wolf said:
Hi Nicolas,

In this specific field of studio photography it's all about the discharge duration fed to the flash-tubes. The camera's shuttertime is usually only set to clear the entire sensor during that discharge.

Bart
Click to expand...

Oh stupid me! oh could I ignore or forgot that? (my last time in a photo studio was 35 years ago…)
…Luminous! (pun intended;-)

If only I could shoot yachts with the Hy6 and Elinchrom! (Well infact, I did have tried some interesting tests with a flash mounted on an 1DS2… but not trying to freeze the image, only fill)
 
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