ExpoDisc WB filter

Is anyone using the ExpoDisc white balance filter? I bought one about a year ago and haven't looked back. It's dead easy to use, you don't have to move to fill the frame, it's saved me countless hours in post, and since it averages all the light entering the lens, it handles mixed lighting brilliantly.

(No connection to the company, just a satisfied user.)

Nicolai Grossman said:

Is anyone using the ExpoDisc white balance filter? I bought one about a year ago and haven't looked back. It's dead easy to use, you don't have to move to fill the frame, it's saved me countless hours in post, and since it averages all the light entering the lens, it handles mixed lighting brilliantly.

(No connection to the company, just a satisfied user.)

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Hi Nicolai,
I'm using the WhiBal card from Michael Tapes, http://www.rawworkflow.com

I'll be writing about it shortly.

How do you use the Expodisk in RAW workflow as opposed to JPG shots?

Asher

Same either way: place filter over lens, switch to manual focus, snap gray frame, select gray frame for custom WB. The whole process takes less than 10 seconds once you get used to it.

Using this method, you can "develop" everything with "as shot" WB; everything is already correct. The novelty of this never wears off! If you forget to shoot a reference frame before starting in a new lighting situation, you can, of course, go back and manually set photos using the eyedropper on the gray frame in post. As you have less manipulation lattitude with JPG (which is one of the reasons I only shoot RAW), it's more important that you remember to do it in-camera, but other than that, there's no difference in use.

But surely, shooting a whibal card has to be faster? And you don't have to reframe the shot - my understanding with the expodisk is that you shoot into the 'predominant' light source, not the subject... And if you have more than one type of light it's still only going to be an approximation.

I have a soft spot for gadgets, but I'm still not getting (as in understanding) this one.

BTW, you can now get the same 'eyedropper on a neutral patch' color balance for JPGs using Lightroom. (Just a remark - you should still shoot RAW...)

It isn't faster for me, personally. I find that it does better for me in mixed lighting because I don't have issues of part of the card being in one temperature and another in another (a big problem I've had with video) and the camera doesn't know what to do with it--it's advantage over a card is that it does a good job of diffusing light across the frame (and you don't have to worry about shadows or anything).

Next time you're in a photo store, ask to try one! They're better appreciated with use.

ExpoDisc and WhiBal are both tools to accomplish the same goal (proper color). I obviously did not find the ED that useful for my shooting style, or I would not have developed the WhiBal. But it is a personal thing. Just remember as stated above that you must shoot the ED INTO the light, not at the subject. That is a lot of what kills it for me.

But we should all use the tools that work for us!

Now I use both products.

I use Ed Pierces Digital Calibration Target & I use an Expo Disk.

They are both fantastic products. I will say with honesty, that if my situation allows I would rather use a DCT then the Expo, not because of anything with the Expo, it's just the fine tuneing the DCT Target lets me not only set my WB, but also gives me accurate reference of my white and black point for the lighting setup. When I shoot in the studio, I use the DCT 100% of the time.

Now there are time when using the DCT is just not an option. I do a lot of performance photography where I'm shooting live shows. Here I use my Expo.