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WHite balance diffusers - new tutorial article

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
I have just posted to my technical information site, "The Pumpkin" a new tutorial article,"White Balance Diffusers in Digital Photography", available here:

http://doug.kerr.home.att.net/pumpkin/index.htm#WB_Diffusers

Let me take a moment to describe what impelled me to prepare this article at this time.

The emergence of a new "white balance tool", the Color Parrot, by Drew Strickland (proprietor of the Pro Photo Home forums), has lead to an earnest round of discussion on that forum ("fomented a catfight" would perhaps be a more candid description).

The Color Parrot is what we may call a "white balance diffuser". It is an accessory to be mounted on the front of a camera's lens, enabling the camera to measure "something"‡ that is of use in the camera's applying color correction ("white balance correction") to the images under the camera's "custom white balance" feature.

‡ I say it that way since it is not clear what quantity it is intended to measure.

Much of the discussion arose from the fact that many of us were surprised that Strickland recommends, as the best technique for using the Color Parrot, making the measurement from the camera position (that is, where the camera will be for the shot), with the camera (Color Parrot equipped for the moment) aimed as it would be for the shot (i.e., "toward the subject").

It is widely (but certainly not universally) accepted that the information needed by the camera to conduct the color correction (in the theoretically classical way) is the chromaticity of the ambient light illumination on the subject (to say it in a more complicated way that we usually do, necessary for technical precision, I'm afraid).

It is also widely (but not universally accepted) that to assuredly do this, we must make a measurement at the subject's location, using an "instrument" (such as our camera equipped with a white balance diffuser) that accepts the incident light the same way that light influences the illumination of the subject during actual "shots".

In the face of that concept, it is hard to see how a measurement from the camera position could glean the necessary information (unless, of course, the overall incident light falling on the camera position were the same, insofar as the chromaticity of the illumination it provided) as that falling on the subject, which is certainly nearly true in some situations).

I asked Strickland to help me bridge the gap between my concept of these principles and the modus operandi of the Color Parrot in my (now infamous) post, "How do it know?". He gently chastised me for muddling up what was supposed to be a joyous celebration of the birth of a new, and convenient, tool by asking scientific questions. He emphasized that scientific understanding, while certainly worthwhile, was not so important here as the fact that the thing works very well (he says) and that people are ordering it.

I continued my quest for insight. After several days, and a lot of statements by Strickland, I still had not received any (to me) satisfying (or even understandable) concepts of how this device accomplished what I believed to be the necessary result in that matter.

One property that Strickland said was responsible for the superior performance of the Color Parrot was that it was "more targeted" than other well-known white balance diffusers, such as the ExpoDisc. I asked exactly what he meant by that, but he did not explain it in any technical terms I could recognize. But the context of the discussion suggests that he means that the "acceptance sensitivity pattern" of the Color Parrot is narrower than that of other diffusers. The object of this is evidently to make the instrument more concentrate its examination on the light arriving from places near the camera axis (that is, in the typical case, from the subject). Of course, I am still baffled as to how that would contribute to the instrument being able to make what I have always thought is the relevant determination (the chromaticity of the net illumination on the subject).

Eventually, Strickland attempted to foreclose the fruitless discussion by saying, in effect, that "There were six guys, who probably didn't intend to buy a Color Parrot anyway, who have asked a lot of questions, and over one hundred who have ordered one. Who do you think is right?" This question, certainly worthy of an election year, ranks right up there, in my mind, with such classics as, "The moon is smaller than the Earth, but is it farther away?"

In any case, not wanting to spend the rest of eternity in the colorimetric purgatory of Drew Strickland's "B" list, I diverted the month's lunch money to ordering a Color Parrot and an ExpoDisc (the latter being something that I had always wanted anyway).

Of course, as you would expect of me, I will probably not much use these in the service of serious photography. Rather, I will examine them, test them (as best I can with my limited laboratory facilities), reverse-engineer them (Ah, magic crystals, you can run but you can't hide), and see what they do in a few actual photographic situations. Perhaps in fact I will discover a scientific principle of which I was previously unaware, or had accidentally ignored, that allows me to see how the Color Parrot do the voodoo that Strickland says it do so well.

Looking ahead to my report on this project, I felt that I would need to, by way of introduction, explain some of the scientific principles I felt were relevant. But I realized that this would lead to a 12-page preamble to an 8-page report.

Accordingly, I decided to prepare the background discussion as a free-standing article, to which I could refer the readers of my report when it is prepared. It is that piece that I introduce in this note.
 

Michael Tapes

OPF Administrator/Moderator
Hi Doug,

I am waiting for delivery of this new WB "device" as well, to see what my brain has missed. In the meantime I suspect that the 30k+ WhiBals out in the field will still be able to do their job well, despite the emotional stress on them (and me <g>) since the annoucement by Drew.

I look forward to your report.
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Doug,

The system I find most reliable is to take a WhiBal always with me wherever I go and it's in the shot and when the light changes for example in a different part of an event or place.

One can do in camera setting of a reference shot for WB but one has to remember to take another when the light changes again.

If I have been remiss, and that happens as I can get distracted, I resort to using a neutral object in the image such as concrete, steel, a white shirt, the white or black of an eye or great California teeth. 50% of the time, it works close. Other times it can be horrible.

In the end, color has to be judge by eye and for that, the least difference, in my experience, the WhiBal and the next best is a reference shot.

WhiBal is one of the simplest additions to a photographer's tools set. Just don't leave home without it!

Asher
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Hi Doug,

You already know about this! In many cameras, there is a function whereby one can take a shot of a white/neutral object to fill the frame and reference incident light in the region of the subject. After selection of this frame, the camera will reference that reference shot of incident light to balance the following jpgs until one resets. One can use one of the snap on white diffusers instead to look at incoming reflected light instead. But again, you already knew that!!

Asher
 

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
Hi, Ahser,

You already know about this! In many cameras, there is a function whereby one can take a shot of a white/neutral object to fill the frame and reference incident light in the region of the subject. After selection of this frame, the camera will reference that reference shot of incident light to balance the following jpgs until one resets. One can use one of the snap on white diffusers instead to look at incoming reflected light instead. But again, you already knew that!!

Yes, I knew that. But I wasn't sure that's what you meant when you contrasted "taking a reference frame" with "using a WhiBal", since one can of course use a WhiBal to take a reference frame.

Evidently, when you first mentioned using a WhiBal, you meant specifically in connection with doing color correction during the "development" of raw images. But you didn't say that.

Incidentally, your concise discussion above of "taking a reference frame" is very nice.

Best regards,

Doug

"Annual Psychics Convention - Your know when, you know where"
 

Michael Tapes

OPF Administrator/Moderator
Hi Doug,

You already know about this! In many cameras, there is a function whereby one can take a shot of a white/neutral object to fill the frame and reference incident light in the region of the subject. After selection of this frame, the camera will reference that reference shot of incident light to balance the following jpgs until one resets. One can use one of the snap on white diffusers instead to look at incoming reflected light instead. But again, you already knew that!!

Asher

Yes. In fact this is the ONLY way to get an accurate White Balance when shooting JPEG. It in effect is emulating the post production process of using a WB reference, since in this manner and ONLY this manner the in-camera raw converter has a WB reference to use in its raw development process which of course is the basis of a camera JPEG.

AND.....the accuracy of the WB whether via the in-camera custom/preset technique or in post production using the WB tool in the external raw converter is totally Dependant on the accuracy of the White balance reference used. That is the reason to use a WhiBal or Gretag/X-rite color checker. These are both true references, with the WhiBal being more consistent and accurate than the Color Checker.
 

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
Hi, Michael,

Yes. In fact this [emphasis added] is the ONLY way to get an accurate White Balance when shooting JPEG.

This which? He mentioned two different techniques, one taking the reference by shooting a neutral target through the (unadapted) lens, and the other using an incident light acceptance diffuser. Do you mean both of those are the only way? Or that the former is the only way? Or that these two are the only way, with the former being preferable?

Best regards,

Doug
 

Michael Tapes

OPF Administrator/Moderator
Hi, Michael,



This which? He mentioned two different techniques, one taking the reference by shooting a neutral target through the (unadapted) lens, and the other using an incident light acceptance diffuser. Do you mean both of those are the only way? Or that the former is the only way? Or that these two are the only way, with the former being preferable?

Best regards,

Doug

The ONLY accurate WB method if shooting JPEG is to set a proper in-camera White Balance . As you know, once the JPEG is developed in the camera, if the WB needs to be corrected, you are applying a destructive correction to the JPEG, rather than developing a properly WB'd JPEG from the RAW. So the in camera'd WB will ALWAYS have better quality (both general IQ as well as WB), then a JPEG that is corrected after the fact, regardless of after-the-fact technique.

Regarding the incident method (ExpoDisc) or the reflected method (WhiBal), both can work equally well, but the WhiBal (reflected) method is easier to both use, and to verify the accuracy of the reference piece (WhiBal or ED) itself.
 
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