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  #91  
Old December 30th, 2012, 07:43 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Kernan View Post

It all depends on what you photograph and how you use your camera.
I suspect that I will need the flocking material for use with the Mamiya 55mm Shift lens as it will most certainly bounce light around inside the chamber.
Grant,

Until I've flocked my cameras, would you say that I just have to be careful of shooting into bright lights or the sun or is there more?

Asher
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  #92  
Old December 31st, 2012, 02:09 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Default Into the sun

Hi Asher,
Yes always be careful of shooting into the sun. Most lenses will flare at least a little. And some more than others.

When I used the Globuscope 4x5 with the JML lens I used a home made lens hood. Now I would recommend one of those flexible gooseneck devices with a black flag so that you can get it right where you need it. I used a Nikon Gel holder that I machined out to stop vignetting. I mostly used the camera for wide angle interiors and I needed to balance strobes and daylight or tungsten. But since I switched to colour negative film I did not need a centre filter. I could burn and dodge the image in a wet darkroom.

I don't recall any real problems. I had blazing sharp images free from flare. I will find another picture to show it's performance. I made 18X24 images which were stunning. My client was a custom woodworker and I needed to show all the wood grain in staircases which sometimes went 3 stories.

The tungsten lights in some of the images were burned out a tad, however most of the shots were tripod and f:16 and anywhere from 1 sec to 60 sec exposures.
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Last edited by Grant Kernan; December 31st, 2012 at 07:01 PM.
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  #93  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 09:55 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Default Globus



Grant Kernan: Untitled
Globus 65mm JML lens
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Last edited by Asher Kelman; January 11th, 2013 at 11:53 PM.
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  #94  
Old January 10th, 2013, 08:24 AM
scott bye scott bye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Kernan View Post
Scott,

Is this the flocking material?

http://www.scopestuff.com/ss_flok.htm

It sounds like flocking will solve your problem. It should. I avoided that particular problem as I am using a slightly cropped image size so my 645 format lenses throws a smaller circle of light which does not bounce around as much inside the nosecone.

It all depends on what you photograph and how you use your camera.
I suspect that I will need the flocking material for use with the Mamiya 55mm Shift lens as it will most certainly bounce light around inside the chamber.

While I am at it I might as well outfit both bodies.



I have seen a number of gridded fresnel focusing lenses for sale on both Ebay and LF forum. I suspect that you have solved your focusing problem by now.

Since I now use Focus Verification in Betterlight's Viewfinder software, I rarely need to use a lupe.

Hi,

Been a while since I visited the forum. I bought my flocking material from these guys. Here is the link

http://www.protostar.biz/hitack.htm

I ordered the FlockBoard light trap sheet first and that was too thick to mold to the walls of the camera so I then ordered the 20' x 28" sheet(FPS-01). The tack sheet was alot thinner and easier to work with.
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  #95  
Old January 10th, 2013, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Kernan View Post
Scott



I have seen a number of gridded fresnel focusing lenses for sale on both Ebay and LF forum. I suspect that you have solved your focusing problem by now.

Since I now use Focus Verification in Betterlight's Viewfinder software, I rarely need to use a lupe.

I bought a yankee brightscreen off of ebay from china, it did help a little, but I plan a calling Maxwell brightscreens and forking out 300-400 because I still have a dim picture in low light. I like to take sunrise and sunset pictures, the surise can be difficult to take with the screen that I currently have.
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  #96  
Old January 11th, 2013, 11:57 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Grant Kernan: Untitled
Globus 65mm JML lens


Grant,

This lens is exceptional with no obvious signs of problems although I do wonder about the cylindrical reflection in front of the stairs. Is that something reflecting in the stone floor or from the lens surfaces?

Asher
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  #97  
Old January 12th, 2013, 04:14 AM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Default Bounced Light

This small spot is much more central than the flare that Scott was experiencing. His is mostly on edges of the image.

I suspect that my spot is caused by something reflecting from the strobes that I used to bounce light into the set. Especially because of the highly reflective nature of both the stone and of the oiled wood stain. However, I also used a Minolta Color Meter and a sandwich of colour compensating gels; So it all gets a bit dicy.

The basis for this is the bluish colour tone.
I never used polarizers with this lens because of light loss issues. It is an F:8 and in actual use I always found it to be almost a stop slower. With reciprocity / filter factors and not using a centre filter I always over exposed slightly.

I also see a much larger softer glare in the wainscot on the left. But this I think is also external glare.

I do see a really good argument for using the flocking that Scott sourced. We should see a touch more contrast in the image especially in darker areas. And perhaps Scott will be able to solve his flare/glare.
I would be interested in Scotts observations with his after flocked images.
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  #98  
Old January 12th, 2013, 01:33 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Grant,

Grant,

I'm impressed that you use a color meter too! What color temp is the light and what desired color temp are you correcting to? What filter mount to the lens? I have a respectable collection of color correcting filters, decamireds, but never thought of using them with this camera!

I'm going to order the flocking ASAP.

Asher
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  #99  
Old January 12th, 2013, 06:38 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Hello Scott,

Do you still have the template for the cutting the sheet of flocking? That would be so helpful! Also, what would I need for two cameras?

Asher
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  #100  
Old January 13th, 2013, 05:07 AM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Asher,

Asher,

That was 15 years ago. I can't remember all the details! But I do remember that cc filters were my friend.

On film I would make multiple exposures and use different filters for mixed lighting.

In print from colour negative, I would dodge and burn in the wet dark room using different colour filters for dodging and for burning and later using different settings on the colour head for both procedures...

BTW All I am trying to do do here is to help Scott...I do believe in the JML and the Globuscope.

In the past I made hundreds of thousands of wet prints. Fiber / Colour / RC ... I built an arial 4x5 infinity pre-focussed bellow-less-hard-shell Sinar Hybrid Camera that I could crawl out onto the wing of an airplane to make straight down images...but that was then and this is now.

Now I restrict myself to the Super 6KHS scan back, the Nikon D800 and Ink.

Oh I used a Nikon 72mm gel filter holder machined out to prevent or at least reduce corner vignetting.

67-72 step up to the gel filter holder.
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  #101  
Old January 13th, 2013, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asher Kelman View Post
Hello Scott,

Do you still have the template for the cutting the sheet of flocking? That would be so helpful! Also, what would I need for two cameras?

Asher
Yes I have the template and could scan it for you. You would have to test it first to see if it would work for you and then make adjustments. I used heavy matte paper for a paper template and then transferred it to the flocking material. I have yet to test the camera. I am waiting for snow to see how it would work out in a high contrast situaion.

All you need is one sheet of the flocking material and you will have more than enough. Let me know how you would want me to send the scan to you.

Scott
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  #102  
Old January 13th, 2013, 11:43 AM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Thanks, Scott! PM sent to you! :)
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  #103  
Old January 14th, 2013, 10:26 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Scott,
A high Key snow shot (contrast) may not tell the whole story. A darkish shot with bright sunlight as in sun or brightly lit area near the edge of the shot will reveal more...
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  #104  
Old January 15th, 2013, 08:22 AM
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Thanks for the info Grant. By the way, did you ever figure out if we could use a monocular or similar off of ebay to attach to the rear of the globuscope? I think this would be more helpful instead of using a dark cloth?
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  #105  
Old January 15th, 2013, 10:21 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Default Monocular

Scott,
I used a Sinar Bag Bellows with one off its frames removed. Then i clipped in a Binocular view and faceplate with magnifier. I could slip the open bag over the camera back and no dark cloth!
The beauty is that you can move around and look at the GG from different angles.

G
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  #106  
Old March 3rd, 2013, 11:20 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Default Globus Challenge

with the pano



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  #107  
Old March 7th, 2013, 06:56 AM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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The above pano was made using an f:4 180mm Zenzanon-PE at f 11.5 with a line time of 1/400 and an iso of 200. I used a Betterlight Super 6K HS at 100 percent res. The scan took roughly 101 seconds. I removed the Betterlight IR cut off filter and replaced it with an almost black R 72. The result is a false colour infared image in RGB.

The difference here is that instead of grey balancing at capture time, I grey balanced in post, which created the false colour infared crossover colour. This creates the Sepia / Cyan false colour.

The images native res is 300 dpi and 30 inches X 215 inches
I have printed it 16 inches by 8 feet on canvas, but I must admit it is a pain to transport.

This image was made without adding the black flocking which I have yet to install in my Globuscope.
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Last edited by Grant Kernan; March 7th, 2013 at 10:13 AM.
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  #108  
Old March 9th, 2013, 06:48 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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I'm posting this for Grant!


Here is another image of the camera with my customized Mark Vandersys bracket, a Mamiya mount and the 50mm shift.


Asher
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  #109  
Old March 28th, 2013, 04:37 PM
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That set up looks cool. I was trying to figure out a way to turn my bracket that was made my Mark into a handle so it would be easier to carry.
Asher do you know what type of viewfinder would be good for the Globuscope and did you ever get the View Glass done by Bill Maxwell? I heard he takes a long time. What is our 35mm equivalent of the camera - 21mm?

I am comparing images taken with my Mamiya 7 and Globuscope, hard to tell the difference.
I am thinking about either selling this cam or my Mamiya 7. Have to sell one.
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  #110  
Old March 28th, 2013, 07:05 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Scott,

I got my viewfinder from Fotoman in China, they're still available AFAIK. It comes with various masks. Yes, my new screen is in but not the flocking yet.

I'd say about 21 mm is about right.

This will give a bigger sheet of film than the Mamiya but one needs a long coat with lots of pockets for the 4x5 film holders!!

Asher
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  #111  
Old April 7th, 2013, 09:22 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Scott,
Once you calibrate your focus with the Globusscope 4x5 it will deliver very sharp images on a piece of film twice the size as the Mamiya 7.
However;
It all depends upon what you shoot and how you shoot.
If you have 3-4 lenses for the Mamiya7, and if you shoot people in situ then I would lean towards it. If you only have one lens for the 7 and you want to do landscape then keep the Globuscope and refine your technique.
It will perform but it is very much up to you.
I drilled all the holes in the Mark Bracket to lighten my load. If I were using the camera in Landscape mode then I would probably eliminate it, however if you want a handhold then an additional grip could work.

And I think it looks like swiss cheese and I am a fan of Swiss Cheese!
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  #112  
Old April 12th, 2013, 02:35 PM
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Hi Grant,

Just checking in, I am still waiting on my viewfinder from China. I ordered the Yankee fresnel off of ebay but it still isn't bright enough. I was thinking about getting the Maxwell HI Lux, but I am contemplating about paying 400.00 and I read on the internet that Bill Maxwell takes a real long time to get it done. Have you tried any other screens with your Globuscope. I want a brighter screen because I like to take sunrise pictures and use Grads. Sold my Mamiya 7 with the one lens for a loss. I don't want to get rid of the Globuscope. To me 4x5 prints still looks better than the mamiya prints above 16x24." To me it seems like the JML lens has low distortion and delivers a crisp image at f22.

Scott
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  #113  
Old April 12th, 2013, 02:38 PM
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Hey


I forgot to ask you if you have a pic on how you have the viewfinder with a bag bellows attached to the rear of your camera. I was looking at one of those monoculars or similar on ebay, but I don't think they would work with the Globuscope. I hate dragging around a big dark cloth.
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  #114  
Old May 5th, 2013, 11:27 PM
Grant Kernan Grant Kernan is offline
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Scott,
What I remember is that I used a Sinar bag bellows with a binocular Lupe and face mask assembly.
I still have most of it for the Norma and I can show you a picture of that, but the bag bellows was modified for use with the Globuscope and I do not have that bellows.
What I did was to remove one of the mounting frames so that one end of the bellows could be
fitted around the back end of the Globuscope. The other end is left intact for the Binolupe and face mask.
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  #115  
Old May 8th, 2013, 11:07 AM
Terry Lee Terry Lee is offline
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http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/...wide-45-camera

Very similar to the Globus......DROOOL....

Time to break out my mad CAD skills and find a 3D Printer!
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