• Please use real names.

    Greetings to all who have registered to OPF and those guests taking a look around. Please use real names. Registrations with fictitious names will not be processed. REAL NAMES ONLY will be processed

    Firstname Lastname

    Register

    We are a courteous and supportive community. No need to hide behind an alia. If you have a genuine need for privacy/secrecy then let me know!
  • Welcome to the new site. Here's a thread about the update where you can post your feedback, ask questions or spot those nasty bugs!

1DsMkIII my first impressions

Just had a few days with my new camera after a year of using a 5D. Now my post capture workflow has changed dramatically - apart from a few exposure and white balance tweaks in ACR there is usually very little for me to do in photoshop, and at last - no more interpolation of files to get them to the right size. I feel very streamlined and efficient now :)

Here is a 100% crop of an image straight from RAW, no tweaking/sharpening apart from the crop and changing it to a jpeg in PS.
1ds3leaf.jpg


And here is the parent picture, again as shot.
1ds3tree-1.jpg


The image details: 1DsMkII, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro @f/8, 1/80s, iso 100. Tripod and cable release.
 

Shane Carter

New member
Hi Christina...can you yet make any observations about high ISO performance? Also are you finding the 14bit files to be the cat's meow? I love them on the Mk3...great tonal range, especially in prints, and VERY noticable in enlargements.
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
The cutout in itself is a pleasure to look at. Of course you have such a great lens. It's pleasant surprise to see the nice bokeh in the background. So you have really isolated the plant yet the tree has it's milieu by which to place it in context.

What is so special with the cutout is that you have taken this one step further and shown us the start of life on this planet, the wonderful leaf. It's showcased beautifully, natural micro-flaws and all, collecting sunlight for doing one simple thing, storing that energy in simple bonds of that miracle element, carbon in carbon dioxide to water the juice of life!

Because of this, I'm especially impressed. We hardly ever see anyone give a special place to the leaf. The soft petals behind are like a poem of light pink dresses celebrating spring.

Thanks!

Asher
 
Thanks for your comments Asher, you always make me feel like an artist :)

Shane, I'm a coward when it comes to high iso's, I'm welded to my tripod and getting up early before it gets breezy, I have to think long and hard before moving up to iso 200 ;)

The thing I've noticed most about the images coming out of the camera is the control of the highlights and shadows and the smoothness of transitions, everything feels calm and serene :)
 

Bernard Wolf

pro member
Christina,

You should at least give iso 200or 400 a try. what do you have to lose? At 200 I doubt you will see much difference from 100.
 
What sort of subjects are you thinking of Bart - high contrast ones?

Yes, high contrast where both highlights and shadows need to display some detail. For each doubling of ISO, one loses at least one stop of dynamic range. The most difficult scenes are those with some highlights that need to show detail, and lots of shadows. The shadows get visibly noisier and lacking of detail as ISO goes up.

Having said that, I do recognize that sometimes one needs to compromise and the size and quality of the 1Ds3 files allows significant postprocessing before it becomes noticeable.

Bart
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Hi Bart,

So your saying that challenging weeding shots for example best be taken at the "native" ISO. but where is the recorded on the menu? :)

Asher
 
Bart, I know you've done much more research in this area but in general I find ISO200 produces smaller files, hence better compression, hence less noise. Is this not the case or is this possibly just a result of slightly different metering and exposure resulting in less dynamic data and then hence less noise ?
 

Jane Auburn

New member
I'm completely underwhelmed by these images. They seems soft to me. Certainly I'd be disappointed with them from a 7k camera.

Just had a few days with my new camera after a year of using a 5D. Now my post capture workflow has changed dramatically - apart from a few exposure and white balance tweaks in ACR there is usually very little for me to do in photoshop, and at last - no more interpolation of files to get them to the right size. I feel very streamlined and efficient now :)

Here is a 100% crop of an image straight from RAW, no tweaking/sharpening apart from the crop and changing it to a jpeg in PS.
1ds3leaf.jpg


And here is the parent picture, again as shot.
1ds3tree-1.jpg


The image details: 1DsMkII, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro @f/8, 1/80s, iso 100. Tripod and cable release.
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
I'm completely underwhelmed by these images. They seems soft to me. Certainly I'd be disappointed with them from a 7k camera.

Jane,

What do you mean by soft? These are snaps, jpgs shown on a monitor. What really is the shortcoming here?

Asher
 
I'm completely underwhelmed by these images. They seems soft to me. Certainly I'd be disappointed with them from a 7k camera.

Even images from expensive cameras need sharpening and tonemapping. Otherwise the image may look a bit dull, especially under low contrast lighting.

Here is a quick (I haven't spent meaningful time on the PP) before/after example of the 100% zoom crop:
Sharpening+Tonemapping.jpg


Same low contrast lighting, but with sharpening and tonemapping applied to the already compressed JPEG. What probably struck Christina is the difference in image data quality compared to her prior 5D files. There is much more that can be done before the image breaks down, partly due to the higher 14-bit Raw accuracy which helps smooth gradients.

Also, but the same would apply to a 5D Mark II shot, the 21 MPixels mean that we are looking at a fragment of a 58.5 x 39 inch (148.6 x 99 cm) image (@ 96 PPI screen resolution).

Bart
 
Bart,

What tone mapping do you speak of? Not the result, the procedure!

Asher

Hi Asher,

Could be anything, from a simple S-curve, to Large radius with low amount USM, to dodging and burning, with or without masks for certain luminosity ranges. One can also convert to 32 bit/channel image and apply adaptive HDR tonemapping as built-in in Photoshop. The possibilities are endless. It depends on the image.

In the above example I just did a large (50px) radius USM after Smart sharpening. Takes a few seconds to do, can make a world of difference.

Cheers,
Bart
 

Mike Shimwell

New member
Yes, high contrast where both highlights and shadows need to display some detail. For each doubling of ISO, one loses at least one stop of dynamic range. The most difficult scenes are those with some highlights that need to show detail, and lots of shadows. The shadows get visibly noisier and lacking of detail as ISO goes up.

Having said that, I do recognize that sometimes one needs to compromise and the size and quality of the 1Ds3 files allows significant postprocessing before it becomes noticeable.

Bart

Bart

I'm not sure this is true. If you go back to our conversation about the bit depth and well capacity you will only lose 'atleast one stop' of dynamic range when you go beyond the 'unity gain' point - say 400iso for the 14bit 1Ds3. Of course, given the noise floor, that may not be the case even then?

However, the 1Ds3 does seem a bit noisier on a per pixel basis than the 5D at high iso, but in print looks great. I've a couple from mine at around 8000 which are perfectly printable for the purpose they were shot.

Mike
 
Bart

I'm not sure this is true. If you go back to our conversation about the bit depth and well capacity you will only lose 'atleast one stop' of dynamic range when you go beyond the 'unity gain' point - say 400iso for the 14bit 1Ds3. Of course, given the noise floor, that may not be the case even then?

Hi Mike,

You are correct. I should have been more clear in that the loss of Dynamic Range (DR) starts out gradually after native sensitivity, but after reaching a certain higher ISO point the losses accelerate. From my measurements, the DR of the 1Ds3 goes from 11.37 stops at ISO 100, to 11.26 stops at ISO 200, and 10.96 stops at ISO 400. At ISO 800 it already drops by 2/3rd of a stop to 10.36 stops. ISO 1600 dives by 0.79 stops to 9.57 stops. I assume other 1Ds3s are similar.

However, the 1Ds3 does seem a bit noisier on a per pixel basis than the 5D at high iso, but in print looks great. I've a couple from mine at around 8000 which are perfectly printable for the purpose they were shot.

Yes that's right, but it does depend a bit on the output size. The interesting thing is that while the per pixel noise may be higher, the per unit area noise is quite good. If one compares the 1Ds3 image after properly downsampling to the pixel dimensions of the 5D, the noise per identical unit area of the 1Ds3 becomes very good in comparison. The key however is that the dynamic range should also be there, and I think it is (although I haven't studied the 5D in depth).

So for modest output sizes one can tolerate some noise, but for large output sizes it may become objectionable. Lack of dynamic range will also be noticeable at smaller output sizes, so one should be careful to not lose it without a good reason (e.g. shutterspeed restrictions to avoid subject movement or camera shake). I usually draw the line at ISO 800, but try to stay at 400 if possible. These higher ISO scenarios are usually also the situations with contrasty lighting where the dynamic range is indispensable.

Cheers,
Bart
 
I'm completely underwhelmed by these images. They seems soft to me. Certainly I'd be disappointed with them from a 7k camera.

Hi Jane, maybe you're not used to inspecting your images at 100% before using any post capture processing? Those were images converted straight from RAW without any modifications/corrections/sharpening - naturally that's a bit soft, drab and not especially contrasty! They go on to look great once properly processed ;)
 
Top