Nick Masson
New member
Hi All,
I am seeking some advice when it comes to using a 25A red filter with BW film... I recently returned from a trip to Uganda, and chose to try out a newly acquired 25A red filter. The specs specify that one should stop down 3 stops when using the red filter, yet I found some of my negatives to be slightly over-exposed. As with all photography, I probably just need more time to experiment and learn how to read my environment better (i.e. anticipate results with a red filter), but if anybody has advice I would appreciate it.
fyi. I am not metering through the lens, and I typically meter off of the foreground to put my 'non-sky' region around middle-grey. As I understand it, the 25A will drop the foreground about 3stops, wheras the sky will drop an additional 2stops (net 5).
Most of the shots that looked somewhat overexposed had bright green foliage and rich, red soil, so perhaps there wasn't as much of a 'blue cast' in my foreground scenery as I might typically expect if I were photographing, say, a pine forest in Colorado. Thus I may have had more light transmission than anticipated from my foreground when metering off of the foliage/soil and dropping three stops...
I got more predictable results with the polarizing filter (objective being to pull out the clouds), so maybe i'll stick with that until I get a better hang for the 25A.
Thanks!
I am seeking some advice when it comes to using a 25A red filter with BW film... I recently returned from a trip to Uganda, and chose to try out a newly acquired 25A red filter. The specs specify that one should stop down 3 stops when using the red filter, yet I found some of my negatives to be slightly over-exposed. As with all photography, I probably just need more time to experiment and learn how to read my environment better (i.e. anticipate results with a red filter), but if anybody has advice I would appreciate it.
fyi. I am not metering through the lens, and I typically meter off of the foreground to put my 'non-sky' region around middle-grey. As I understand it, the 25A will drop the foreground about 3stops, wheras the sky will drop an additional 2stops (net 5).
Most of the shots that looked somewhat overexposed had bright green foliage and rich, red soil, so perhaps there wasn't as much of a 'blue cast' in my foreground scenery as I might typically expect if I were photographing, say, a pine forest in Colorado. Thus I may have had more light transmission than anticipated from my foreground when metering off of the foliage/soil and dropping three stops...
I got more predictable results with the polarizing filter (objective being to pull out the clouds), so maybe i'll stick with that until I get a better hang for the 25A.
Thanks!