Derek Cantillan
New member
located Latitude (DMS): 14° 4' 26 N Longitude (DMS): 120° 38' 1 E west coast of the Philippines
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located Latitude (DMS): 14° 4' 26 N Longitude (DMS): 120° 38' 1 E west coast of the Philippines
I like the image except that the rock appears to be somehow artificial. Can you give us the complete workflow for this image? Sharpening radius = 3 pixels?
The rock looks like a lot of "clarity" has been applied.
I'd use the idea that the rock doesn't seem to belong to the rest of the picture.
I think it is the lack of obvious shadow that causes this effect - without shadow there's nothing to ground it on the beach. I say lack of obvious shadow, because I think there is a hint of a shadow on the bottom left of the rock. The camera angle it was taken from seems to have hidden most of it.
sir,
here's my workflow
adjust levels
USM 100, 3, 0
can you give me some tips on how to sharpen the middle part?
on that photo, i use manfrotto 055x prob with giottos mh 1300
d90 with 11-16mm + b+w nd110 + lee .9se ndg
exif
manual exposure
exposure time : 60sec
time : 11:55am
f/16
raw pp
clarity : 100
vibrance : 30
saturation : 10
sharpening : 100
radius : 3.0
details : 100
masking : 0
photoshop pp
adjust levels
usm : 100, 3, 0
thank you guys
Hi Derek,
You have used a good tripod, great camera and lens! 60seconds will give the soft water effect that folk seem to like nowadays. Interesting to see pictures of water with different methods. I like fast shutter to catch the waves as in surf riding. The power can only be seen that way. With a scanning back Jim Collum has the waves going backwards but very sharp. I recognize that I'm in the minority in not going for creamy waterfalls, LOL. Here however, the esthetics are on your side and the effect is splendid. It so reminds me of the french impressionists with the soft bars of color.
O.K. so you set things up perfectly it seems, but how could one do better? You are using an f stop of 16. This is way too small to get the sharpest images. The picture starts to degrade as one uses a progressively smaller aperture and roughly speaking it's about 5.6 beyond which you are stepping into the unknown! If you must have DOF increase, go to f8. I one went to f11! That's an amazing exception. To get less light I'll use a ND filter. But when you stop down, the image sharpness suffers. search on Bart Van der Wolf in OPF for the relationship between f stop and diffraction.
For sure, one can play with sharpening and vibrance but you cannot match what you get by having the lens open up a little.
If you want to use f11 or f 16 then get a LF camera and film! Hey, you can use f22 then!
I still enjoy you picture! With all the effort to make the rock sharp it then seems as if it doesn't really belong there. If you have the time and can reshoot it with an ND filter to cut the light needed for your slow shutter speed you will be way ahead. You might even consider a polarizing filter too. That could really clarify the bands of color as the water is mixed with sand and also light is refracted and reflected. I do hope you will go back for more!
Asher
on that photo, i use manfrotto 055x prob with giottos mh 1300
d90 with 11-16mm + b+w nd110 + lee .9se ndg
exif
manual exposure
exposure time : 60sec
time : 11:55am
f/16
raw pp
clarity : 100
Clarity can be dangerous when over applied. In this case is has created a broad,light halo around the rock which has disconnected it from the sand.
vibrance : 30
saturation : 10
sharpening : 100
radius : 3.0
details : 100
masking : 0
That's a lot of sharpening!
photoshop pp
adjust levels
usm : 100, 3, 0
You did it twice?
This is incomplete.
Where is the size reduction?
thank you guys