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Melchi--Nosferatu style

35.jpg


Melchi's Halloween portrait. He's just short of 23 months old in this photo.

This is a crop from 8x10", made with a 10"/f:4 Voigtländer Petzval lens at f:22 from around 1860 on a Sinar P on my favorite discontinued portrait film, Ektapan rated EI 50 and developed in ABC pyro. The print is on another discontinued product, Azo, Grade 2, developed in Ansco 130. I made five exposures for this shoot. I've got two lights here, one in a plain 5" reflector with barndoors pointed upward just in front of the camera, and another with a Norman cylindrical background diffuser with two barndoors on a boom over the organ. The main light is about two stops brighter than the background light.

There's just a little retouching here--some etching with an X-acto knife on the negative to tone down the leg a bit.
 

Charlotte Thompson

Well-known member
David

I love the darkness of this- I think so very well set up but with just the right hint of reality-
this for me is a stunning piece of work- the child is beautiful-the organ in the background gives balance to all the dark but also adds to the feel and look - sophisticated I would say-
I keep coming back to the shot because of its ability to make me want to see more-

Charlotte-
 

Jim Galli

Member
BRAVO! David. Anyone who can get a 23 month old to sit for a portrait with an 8X10 and hot lights is the true wizard. No more Ektapan, No more Azo! I feel your pain. Your lighting is perfect. Well done.
 

Cem_Usakligil

Well-known member
Hi David,

Not only the picture is excellent but also the story of it's making of is very interesting.
I mean, who from the digital generation could imagine that one can take an x-acto knife to a negative in order to reduce highlights? This is so priceless! :)

CHeers,
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
35.jpg


Melchi's Halloween portrait. He's just short of 23 months old in this photo.

This is a crop from 8x10", made with a 10"/f:4 Voigtländer Petzval lens at f:22 from around 1860 on a Sinar P on my favorite discontinued portrait film, Ektapan rated EI 50 and developed in ABC pyro. The print is on another discontinued product, Azo, Grade 2, developed in Ansco 130. I made five exposures for this shoot. I've got two lights here, one in a plain 5" reflector with barndoors pointed upward just in front of the camera, and another with a Norman cylindrical background diffuser with two barndoors on a boom over the organ. The main light is about two stops brighter than the background light.

There's just a little retouching here--some etching with an X-acto knife on the negative to tone down the leg a bit.
Melchi is a delight and extends the dimensions and projects the black and white physicality of the organ keys towards us in a beautiful form sculpted in delicate transitions of tone. What bright eyes and personal confidence. The left leg is rather bold, but that acts to send him even more towards us. I do like the aggressive shin placed before us in this manner the way it's lit. It anchors the image and in very aggressive dynamic way. It might be more pleasing to tone down the skin here, but then it would also be more satisfactory and calmed. I prefer the more aggressive energy the dissonance so created as it is now! Just my taste.

Asher
 
Thanks for the comments, folks.

I did this with strobes (Norman LH4000 for the main, LH2000 for the background, P2000D pack), not hotlights, but if I've managed to get a hotlight look, that's a good thing.

That negative etching technique has taken some practice, and I'm still not quite 100% confident about it, but now that I'm getting the hang of it, I realize how useful it is. It was an absolutely standard method at one time. In the age of long exposures and natural light, etching might be used to sharpen a line, as well as to control highlights. If you see a sharp 19th-century photograph of a living child under the age of five, it's very likely been sharpened with a knife. Brooks graduates of a certain generation say that they all had an assignment of photographing a bald model with a strong top light and thinning the hotspot on the neg.

I originally posed Melchi with the organ square in the frame and got three shots off that way, but predictably, he turned around to play with the organ. Fortunately, the Sinar P is very quick to work with, so I was able to reorient the camera, refocus, and even adjust the swing a bit and get two more frames in.

There's even more of a story about the lens. I traded it with a friend of mine for a box of 50 sheets of 4x5" Provia 100F. He bought it along with a Darlot Petzval of the same focal length from a camera shop in the midwest that went out of business and had these old lenses as display pieces. Since I got such a good deal on the lens, I splurged and had SK Grimes make me a custom flange and a set of waterhouse stops, which are perfectly round aperture plates that slip into a slot in the lens barrel, because lenses of this vintage don't usually have iris diaphragms. The photographs my friend made with the film went into a book that came out this year, and photographs from the book are currently on exhibit downtown in Manhattan at the South Street Seaport Museum, so we both came out well.
 
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Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
That negative etching technique has taken some practice, and I'm still not quite 100% confident about it, but now that I'm getting the hang of it, I realize how useful it is. It was an absolutely standard method at one time. In the age of long exposures and natural light, etching might be used to sharpen a line, as well as to control highlights. If you see a sharp 19th-century photograph of a living child under the age of five, it's very likely been sharpened with a knife. Brooks graduates of a certain generation say that they all had an assignment of photographing a bald model with a strong top light and thinning the hotspot on the neg.
This is so fascinating! So how do you do this? Can you shows pics of the set up?

A.K. Fast Focus with the Sinar P:

I originally posed Melchi with the organ square in the frame and got three shots off that way, but predictably, he turned around to play with the organ. Fortunately, the Sinar P is very quick to work with, so I was able to reorient the camera, refocus, and even adjust the swing a bit and get two more frames in.
So what f stop do you use to get focus faster? Are the Waterhouse stops marked for f stop or just numbered? Do they have some overlap at the top of the slit to prevent stray light coming in or that doesn't matter in practice?

There's even more of a story about the lens. I traded it with a friend of mine for a box of 50 sheets of 4x5" Provia 100F. He bought it along with a Darlot Petzval of the same focal length from a camera shop in the midwest that went out of business and had these old lenses as display pieces. Since I got such a good deal on the lens, I splurged and had SK Grimes make me a custom flange and a set of waterhouse stops, which are perfectly round aperture plates that slip into a slot in the lens barrel, because lenses of this vintage don't usually have iris diaphragms.

I have several lenses with the same needs, including a slot for Waterhouse stops. So off to SK Grimes, hopefully today! Thanks for the jogging of my memory. It's been on my "to do" list which get's buried by my writing, books and new "to do" lists from my smart wife!

The photographs my friend made with the film went into a book that came out this year, and photographs from the book are currently on exhibit downtown in Manhattan at the South Street Seaport Museum, so we both came out well.

So does he have a website? Can we link a picture? Did he use the lens wide open or he had an external iris. In any case, maybe you might review the book for us?

Asher
 
This is so fascinating! So how do you do this? Can you shows pics of the set up?

I use an Adams Retouching Machine. Here's a page with a photo of the machine, etching tools, and a description of negative retouching--

http://www.leadholder.com/lh-non-kodak.html

So what f stop do you use to get focus faster? Are the Waterhouse stops marked for f stop or just numbered? Do they have some overlap at the top of the slit to prevent stray light coming in or that doesn't matter in practice?

My waterhouse stops are marked for f:stop with this lens. Stray light doesn't seem to be a problem in practice.

I just remove whatever stop I'm using to focus, and double check with the stop in place. The things that make the Sinar P/P2 so fast to work with compared to other view cameras are self-arresting geared movements and asymmetric tilts and swings that allow you to see the effect of the tilt or swing on the rear standard immediately on the groundglass without need for refocusing or any iterative tilt/focus/tilt/focus process. If you want the movement to be on the front standard instead of the rear, you can use the rear standard to determine the tilt/swing angle, read the angle off the scale, and replicate the movement on the front standard, which also has a scale.

So does he have a website? Can we link a picture? Did he use the lens wide open or he had an external iris.

My friend, Stephen Longmire, is not a website kind of guy (in many ways he's more analogue than I am, but his prints are digital, done in close collaboration with David Adamson), but there is a page for the show--

http://www.southstreetseaportmuseum.org/index1.aspx?BD=9612

And here's a page for the book--

http://www.press.uchicago.edu/presssite/metadata.epl?mode=synopsis&bookkey=258163

He didn't use the Darlot as far as I know for these photos--mostly standard lenses on 4x5".

In any case, maybe you might review the book for us?

I could. Let's get the last article wrapped up, and I can look into starting the next one.
 
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Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Thanks for the rich information. I think one could use a tooth brush or other vibrator to make one's own "Ansel Adams Machine". I love the idea of being able to get back hair after from over exposed negative. Scraping off the silver is pretty neat.

Just being exposed to these skills, just to know they really went to this trouble, shows that the photographers saw with their mind and not just through the lens.

Asher
 
I don't think the Adams Retouching Machine was named after Ansel. I don't even know if he had one.

Before the Adams machine, people use a kind of folding retouching desk with a glass surface to hold the neg and a mirror on the bottom to reflect light up from a lamp or a window through the neg. I think Hurrell mentions something about using a vibrating retouching machine in the 1930s. I leave the vibration off for etching. The vibration is mainly for pencil retouching.

No need to make your own. I think it may still be possible to buy a new one for around $600, but used ones abound for $50 or less.

Here's a photo of the lens with a waterhouse stop in place--

david-a-goldfarb-albums-petzval-group-picture790-voigtl-nder-petzval-around-10-flange-waterhouse-stops-s-k-grimes.jpg
 
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