How to expose [present and show] images ?

[Antonio Correia]

How do you expose [present and show] your images ?

Framed ?

Glued on Dibond and separated 1cm from museum glass ?

Does the image includes the white borders also glued to Dibond ?

How you do it ?

I am confused and I do not know how to do it.

Thank you for any tip

 

[Mark Hampton]

How do you expose your images ?

Framed ?

Glued on Dibond and separated 1cm from museum glass ?

Does the image includes the white borders also glued to Dibond ?

How you do it ?

I am confused and I do not know how to do it.

Thank you for any tip

Antonio

ash frames - small images mostly - matted - behind glass.

cheers

 

[George Holroyd]

The passe-partout method using white cotton Museum Board, Neilsen black metal frames, and UV resistant glass.

 

[John Wolf]

Thin black or brown-black wood frames.
Generous white bevelled mats.
Foam core backing.
T-hinges to mount photo to mat.
Regular glass.
Simple.

John

 

[Antonio Correia]

After having posted this question I have been not only surfing but also checking how I have done before and reading in recent Silvershotz magazine.
I had exposed before but now I asked you because I wanted something more exquisite.
On the next post you will find images of my previous framing. I was doing the right way.

The frame is in aluminium and the white canvas is in cardboard (not exactly but you know what I try to explain) and it is cut at 45 degrees showing a thin black frame all around which is in fact, part of the board itself.

You can see that the corners of the framing are very solid as well as the piece for hanging on the wall.
The framing with the tree is in my sleeping room.
I do know the images presented here and now are not the best but I didn't want to spend time on them just for this purpose.

But I would like to thank you all about the great tips you gave me.
-
Mark talks about small images. You are right. The one I have in my room is just 15/20 and it looks good even - or because of it - being part of a set of 4 images.

Thank you George. The ones I am showing here use museum glass which I think is of great advantage in spite of cutting a bit the pop - if I may say so - of the images themselves.

Thank you to you also John. The foam core backing is important indeed. In these two here I am just using a kind of wood which works fine... so far.

Thank you all again Very helpful

To be continued...

 

[Antonio Correia]

...

 

[Terry Lee]

I follow my photo-god Ansel Adams procedures:

-Print is dry mounted to matt board (white, archival, non buffered)
-It is then spotted (if needed, and 99.9% SG prints need it ;-)
-Titled, numbered signed on the Matt just under the print
-Foam core archival backing and the outside Matt are taped on one longside to make a hinge. The print (and its now permanent mat) are situated between the two, Outside Matt is sized to leave a small boarder of the print matt (and room to show the signature underneath). The print Matte is the secured to the foam core backing with artist tape.
-Full Matt and backing "Sandwich" then goes into a frame. Wooden black frames only for me, only white Matt board too. Only way IMHO to show B&W artwork.
-Matting sandwich is pinned into the frame. Then black paper backing is double taped to the back of the frame, and clean edges cut with exacto blade for exact paper backing size.
-Then hanger eyelets are positioned equidistant on each side, and hanging wire strung between the two.

It is a lot of work, but once you have it finished you understand why Ansel did it that way! Looks like a museum piece, and really ads significant value to your work....

 

[Antonio Correia]

Thank you Terry for the lines you have written about the framing.
I have to "digest" what you have written because I am lacking a lot of terms I do not know the meaning of.
I rarely use Google translate but this time I must.

I have visited your web page and I have downloaded "Windows and Walls" folio.
As I was scrolling down and when seing the first and second image I thought "Huumm, it looks like LensWork Folios..."

At the end I was sure - that the presentation is similar to LensWork, which I value very much - when I read the Colophon and saw that you use some kind of envelop for the prints. You are using Piezographie inks. !! Great.

Unfortunately I can't afford to use those inks because I do have not sold any image - so far, will I ever ? - and with a big help from the crisis of course pushing everyone down... I am not a politician you know...

I have designed my own Folios/envelops. I made them in dark grey cardboard. They are very nice.

At the moment it is a bit late but I will show you in the morning. It is 1h45m in the morning...

I just hear that Monday is Presidents Day while on Google's hanging out with son, daughter in law and 16 month grand-son from CA. Today he was talking a lot !

Thank you for your attention

 

[Asher Kelman]

Antonio and Terry,

I'm following closely this discussion too as I'm looking for the best way to frame prints that arrive by mail. Do you work with standard sizes so you can simply purchase mats and frame online and save money that way?

Asher

 

[Terry Lee]

Antonio,

Thank you, I am glad that you enjoyed "Windows & Walls", I love Lenswork and value the work Brooks Jensen has done, he is a great teacher and I have learned alot from him! I hope I can provide ongoing insight and teaching from what I have learned as well.

Piezo is expensive to start, but I am finding it is cheaper than silver papers. But you are correct it is a bit of a drain on a wallet! And this economy hasn't been good for sales, for sure!

I am producing several videos, one is "Matting & Finishing" that I'll try to finish up and post on Youtube for you to see first hand what I tried to explain in text. I hope that will help!

Keep shooting, love your work!

 

[Terry Lee]

Antonio and Terry,

I'm following closely this discussion too as I'm looking for the best way to frame prints that arrive by mail. Do you work with standard sizes so you can simply purchase mats and frame online and save money that way?

Asher

Hi Asher!

I always try to use "standard" (at least US Standard) Matt sizes. So for a "standard" 8x10 print I will normally do something like:

Image size actually shy of 9" by 7", usually close to 8.75 x 6.75
Matt opening (inner bevel that touches the print) 9.5 x 7.5
Matt outer dimensions: 11x14

The odd sizes (to an old Geltain Silver guy) of inkjet papers is throwing me off a bit, still working on larger inkjet sizes ;-) 13"x19"???!?!?! That size just doesn't make sense to a camera guy ;-)

Here in the US I use www.matcutter.com for all my matts, backings, foamcore, etc. Also use their frames. Highly recommend them.