doug anderson
New member
How many of you use a light meter with digital photography? Is there any point in using one with the present technology in the camera?
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Light Meters?
- Thread starter doug anderson
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nicolas claris
OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Well, I don't, but sometimes, specially for interior shots, I wonder if I should… The fact to wonder makes me think I should…
But raw is so powerfull!
But raw is so powerfull!
Bart_van_der_Wolf
pro member
I use mine less as tme goes by. However, used as a flashmeter it still comes in useful when balancing strobes.
With digital, my experience in interpreting the RGB histograms usually gets me close to optimal pretty fast. And when the scene has a high dynamic range, or when noise needs to be as low as possible, I bracket to get it right down to 1/3rd of a stop. When the scene dynamics exceed what can be captured in a single image, I try to make an HDR recording or an exposure fusion (which usually requires a stationary subject to begin with).
Bart
Kathy Rappaport
pro member
Consistency
Actually, I am starting to use one again in some settings; I find that I will get some consistent results when I do - different than using the camera. Definitely in the studio but even in some settings it gives me an additional way to have the look I want.
Actually, I am starting to use one again in some settings; I find that I will get some consistent results when I do - different than using the camera. Definitely in the studio but even in some settings it gives me an additional way to have the look I want.
David A. Goldfarb
New member
The histogram will tell you a lot, particularly with available light.
With studio light, it's good to be able to determine the ratio between lights, since you can control the contrast that way, and it's easier to do that with a light meter.
With studio light, it's good to be able to determine the ratio between lights, since you can control the contrast that way, and it's easier to do that with a light meter.
Ken Tanaka
pro member
To the previous good responses I'll add that I do use an incident light meter (a Sekonic 758R) in several situations.
1. I am occasionally commissioned to photograph 2D and 3D art works. In these circumstances color and exposure accuracy are critical. The reflected meter built into a camera can be fooled by some of these subjects.
2. When working with strobes triggered by radio signals (i.e. Pocket Wizards) the Sekonic can be set to simultaneously trigger the strobes and take an incident reading which I then transfer to the camera. This is indispensable.
3. When doing some tabletop work, even with continuous light, it is sometimes much more accurate to use an incident meter and/or a handheld spot meter.
Reflected metering systems in today's digital cameras are, in the main, excellent. You may never need to use a handheld meter, particularly since you can evaluate exposures immediately and for free in a dslr. But I personally like to have a good handheld in my toolbox.
1. I am occasionally commissioned to photograph 2D and 3D art works. In these circumstances color and exposure accuracy are critical. The reflected meter built into a camera can be fooled by some of these subjects.
2. When working with strobes triggered by radio signals (i.e. Pocket Wizards) the Sekonic can be set to simultaneously trigger the strobes and take an incident reading which I then transfer to the camera. This is indispensable.
3. When doing some tabletop work, even with continuous light, it is sometimes much more accurate to use an incident meter and/or a handheld spot meter.
Reflected metering systems in today's digital cameras are, in the main, excellent. You may never need to use a handheld meter, particularly since you can evaluate exposures immediately and for free in a dslr. But I personally like to have a good handheld in my toolbox.
John Rocha
New member
I'm like most of the other photographers posting. I find that digital is a bit like using a test polaroid. Reflected light meters in camera can be fooled and often I'd prefer the spot reading. Of course carefully checking the histogram is a help. When I can I'll bracket or switch to manual if I want to keep either the shutter speed or aperture constant. Of course, lots of pictures i.e. action you can't bracket and then it might be worth checking with a light meter. I've found much less use fro my flashmeter too. As I shoot RAW there's good latitude too.