OK - thanks Eric, received your Raw file, and was able to work with it in CS4. I normally use Capture One 3.7.4 for my raw conversions, but it doesn't recognize the newer Nikon cameras, so it wasn't an option. I converted with Adobe's Camera Raw, basically just using the default settings that came up. I then did all the editing in CS4.
I mainly used the Shadows and Highlights tool, along with some use of Levels. I almost always use these in combination with the History Brush (to restore specific areas which are adversely effected by the overall adjustment I've made, such as blown out highlights). I tweaked color balance some to remove a bit of a yellow cast, and applied a little Unsharp Mask selectively.
Here's the original image, followed by what I came up with, for easier comparison:
Original
Edited
I'll be interested in your opinion, and that of others as well.
P.S. As an side, initially I couldn't see how to convert it into a 16-bit TIF, so started with the 8-bit TIF. I was shocked by how quickly the image degraded as I made the various adjustments (readily shown by viewing the histogram which contained multiple gaps). I then figured out how to go to 16-bit TIF, and this made all the difference in the world.
This was something I already knew in theory, but was impressed with how big a real-world difference it made!