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Continuing the Cyanotype Journey

The first is a standard botanical cyanotype and the second the same but toned with Tannic Acid.

last vestiges of fall-2.jpg


The Last Vestiges of Summer

dead leaves-2.jpg


Winter Gives No Quarter to Fall's Last Offering​
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Chris,

I really like the first for its openness and the second for its fullness and completion.

But the second is also extraordinarily rich and surprises me. Is it a crop of something much larger?

Asher
 
Straight 8x10 on HPR. The last one is a three toned image (cyan, yellow, and brown), bleached between each layer. It's complicated and takes three days as each layer must be dried for a minimum of 12 hours.
 
There is no "control" so to speak. Mostly what I do is hand apply specific areas with differing chemicals to get the desired effect I want - well, in so much as the process will allow my fantasy of my desires. I do know the straight cyanotype will give varying shades of blue and that the herb, turmeric will give off a bit of yellow. The browns are achieved by light to dark applications of tannic acid combined with black coffee and I can achieve a greenish hue through the bleaching process. I also use black Himalayan sea salt, paprika, Kosher salt, dill weed, soap bubbles and saran wrap for special effects....and a three to four hour exposure in the sun. Here is one more I processed today:

Forest Floor copy  for tpf.jpg
 
The ones I've presented so far are only 8x10. Today I am going to do some salt prints at 10x14. I will do much larger once I get my new print frames built. The actuality of paper costs is the larger the roll, the less expensive it becomes. I want to do 18 x 24's in all my processes, I just need larger contact print frames which are prohibitively expensive.

To do the botanicals, no issue with print frames, you just need large pieces of tempered glass and a wide outdoor space to work in with good, direct sunlight. I generally prepare four to six papers so I can take advantage of the direct, overhead sun for two to three hours. Once exposed, I can process them all at the same time, or one at a time, at least for the preliminary step to get a good, cyanotype image. Once they are all dried overnight, then I can have more fun with them as a good spritz of vinegar instantly revives the cyanotype chemistry. With all these processes, metal trays or tongs are a huge no-no. Plastic, glass or bamboo are the better choices.
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Can a frame maker store make custom frames for you?

….and would this work or it’s too expensive:

IMG_0474.jpeg



Certainly, 16”x20” is a great size!

Asher
 
It would work and I may indulge myself but for what you get, it's still expensive. I can buy it cheaper at B&H and don't have to buy from Adorama whom I detest! In Fact, just purchased from B&H for $211.00 and will get it Friday. Now I will have an 9x12, 11x14, and a 16x20 and may even indulge myself further and get the 20x24 for $239.00. I am surprised that the price has come down so drastically as this size in 2008 sold for close to $600.00.
 
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Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
I bet this is new old stock!

The folk couldn’t have sold a lot during the COVID epidemic and this is not a common need for photographers.

What does this mean for your processing trays? Do you have to buy larger sizes?

What’s the native width of your paper? Is it a roll?

Asher
 
The paper in rolls is between $135-$249 for 24" x 50' depending on the weight. I want to do some very long pieces that will require spraying on the sensitizer and silver but will have to find one really long piece of glass...but I am pretty resilient.
 
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