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Faces from the Getty

Gary Ayala

New member
I visited the Getty Villa a museum in Malibu, California. I was drawn to the statues of "real" people, now 1,000's of years old. As I viewed their faces I constantly wondered ... Who actually were they ... what made them laugh and cry? How were they similar to people today ... how were they similar to me? What made them different ... why are they preserved in stone? I was fascinated by their faces and intrigued by their stories.

Faces of the Getty can be found here:

http://garyayala.smugmug.com/gallery/1654748

Gary

80931938-L.jpg
 
Study the way they were made and learn.
These have stand the face of time and are still intriquing.
Study the poses and wonder WHY they are still intresting, you will look at a totally different way to statues if you realise this :D
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Gary,

Your background as a newsphotographer with considerable experience in B&W comes through.

The view from below gives authority. The tonality is great for showing details of the beard.

Did you break the law and use flash or select out hte b.g.? Tell the truth!

What was your conversion to B&W technic?

Anyway, I like the work, bridging 100 years and bring to us a real person from stone!

Asher
 

Gary Ayala

New member
As to the lighting ... just used what was provided by J.Paul. I did burn and dodge to get a directional lighting look as most of the statues were pretty evenly lighted with some hot spots tossed in just to screw with the photogs. Being a neophyte to digital ... I did nothing special for B&W conversion, either I de-saturated during RAW processing, or in PS I just hit Grayscale in Mode, then played with curves and/or levels.

More faces at the link.

Gary
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Hi Gary,

Well, for you're a neophyte with a darkroom-programmed brain, you do pretty well!

Some quick pointers. Add two layers above your duplicated background laters.

(First a Hue Saturation layer. Leave it alone for now! this layer is optional).

Next a Channels layer, set it to mono.

Now you have a B& W image, duplicate it and save a copy.

Adjust the image (starting with optional Hue Sat layer and finishing) with Channnels going back and forth as you optimize.

When you have an issue with some problem highlight, get out another copy of that image and adjust to get the highlight back. Then "Select all", "copy-merge" and paste to the rest of the B&W. Erase with soft edge brush (or Mask with feathered edge) to just leave the corrected highlights and blend in.

None of this means criticism of your impactful work, just something to play with and pass on to your students!

Never before have photographers had such control over expressing a color image as tonalities. Moreover, because of this, texture itself can also be brought out to approach what the eye can really appreciate without limitations by choosing particular film/filter combinations.

You are doing a great service to everyone who is anyone near the Getty Museums, (There are 2) which offer amazing architecture, a day's photography in itself and artwork beyond the mind capability to engage except over months of visiting!

This is, without doubt, one of the world class museums that all phtotgraphers should try and visit.

The portraits you have taken of stone sculptures show how even these great works can be made reachable and reinterpreted over 1000 years later and still give so much pleasure.

Nest time, please call me!

Asher
 
Asher Kelman said:
Some quick pointers. Add two layers above your duplicated background laters.

(First a Hue Saturation layer. Leave it alone for now! this layer is optional).

Next a Channels layer, set it to mono.

Now you have a B& W image, duplicate it and save a copy.

Adjust the image (starting with optional Hue Sat layer and finishing) with Channnels going back and forth as you optimize.

When you have an issue with some problem highlight, get out another copy of that image and adjust to get the highlight back. Then "Select all", "copy-merge" and paste to the rest of the B&W. Erase with soft edge brush (or Mask with feathered edge) to just leave the corrected highlights and blend in.

I disagree with this flow when working in harsh lighting (stage lights, ...).

The first step is to look at the red, green, and blue channels separately and see where you have data and where you have clipped data(shadow or highlight clipping). From there, create the Hue Saturation Adjustment Layer (no tweaks) and the Channel Mixer Adjustment Layer. Then tweak the Channel Mixer Adjustment Layer in grayscale mode to ensure you have a reasonable amount of data in the new greyscale channel (i.e., lose clipped detail and get data everywhere you want it). Then follow Asher's guidlines and tweak from there.
Sean [/Quote]



I answered in your post by mistake!

Could you repost the part I removed, as I can't undo!

Sorry :) Asher
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Asher Kelman said:
Why not just correct levels first?

Asher,

Good question. Why not just correct levels first?

My initial answer is the negative answer, the reason not to correct levels first is you may have Auto Levels, if you use it, set to clip data and this could exacerbate any loss of data due to clipping caused by harsh lighting that is not corrected by your white balance (i.e, this is even more vital to JPEG shooters).

Vastly more importantly, the first thing I suggest is to look at the data. i.e., look at the red, green, and blue channels and see what data you have before changing anything. Why? Because you could have an image where you have a mostly clean green channel with clipped shadows and highlights, while the red channel has adequate highlights and no shadow detail, and while the blue channel has good shadow detail and clipped midtones and highlights. The point here is not what the data does, but looking at and seeing what the data does before you do anything (i.e, this is like looking both ways before crossing the street to avoid being hit by a car).

In other terms, look at what you have before you change it. If the blue channel holds highlights and the green channel holds good shadow detail while the red channel holds noisy midtones, then you have some hard decisions. A good greyscale balance may entail 40% blue, 40% green, and 20% red to retain shadows and highlights while reducing noisel But, what if you could care less about shadow details? The perhaps a blend with 60% blue, 30% red (less due to noise), plus 10% green with a curves adjustment to brighten overall luminosity due to the reduction in luminosity due to the greyscale blend would be appropriate.

In short, the answer is to not do anything before you look at the data and see what you have to work with. This is because is the only correct first step is to see what you have. Levels can clip desirable data. Curves can clip desirable data. But if you know what the data looks like, then you can appropriately judge the next step. And the desirable next step may be to clip data you want to keep to enable you to keep data you find more valuable as you can always paint in desired data later with a layer mask.

In short, I am absolutely not good at stating things in short in technical terms.

In short, focus on what you wish to create as a vision. See what you already have. Then work with that data to craft what you envision. No workflow that says to do anything but study the data you have and then work with the data you have to achieve your goal will always work. Simplfied workfows may work 90% of the time, but sadly on the 3% of your images that are truly outstanding compositionally the odds are that the simplfied workflows will fail you 90% of the time. This is where expertise/craftsmanship come in in helping one realize artistic vision. To quote:
Set aside The Rule of Thirds. It is statistical, not prescriptive...

- Mike Spinak
In other terms, what works much of the time, does not work all of the time. And while thoughtful contemplation is what I recommend for postprocecessing, it is poor practice for dealing with a nest of wasps you just angered. I say this as someone who was stung 36 times after steping on a wasp nest as a child who nonetheless finds them absolutely beautiful creatures. In other words, evaluate every situation for what is the best course of action.

Anyway, if anyone wants example images I know of some in my archives and would be happy to provide some to illustrate my point.

enjoy your day,

Sean
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Sean,

A good answer!

However, for what I was suggesting, the brief instructions work 99% of the time.

Remember, I uses image duplicates to render separately any trouble areas. Selections of this work are then added to modify portions off the master files.

That works every time and is fast and requires intuitive skill of which Gary has tons as a long time news photographer.

My goal is to just to use hues (associated with particular tones at the time of light capture), to be remapped to new tones, to enhance texture, tonality and composition. This delivers the optimum final expression of the concept in the photographers mind. The process is intuitive improved by skill and experience.

The "look" at the histogram at the outset is a good idea, and I sometimes do it, but mostly, IMHO, not needed at all.

This would fall into my category of "might do", since at the time I may produce layers from calculations, the L channel of LAB and so forth and add these as extra contributions to all or parts of the image, blending from amongst the many options in CS2.

Asher
 
Asher Kelman said:
However, for what I was suggesting, the brief instructions work 99% of the time.
I agree. That was why I noted harsh lighting as that is one of the more common causes of clipped channel. Although, incorrect white balance when shooting JPEG could be an issue too (I have not shot a JPEG in years so I am no longer intimately familiar with their issues.
Asher Kelman said:
Remember, I uses image duplicates to render separately any trouble areas. Selections of this work are then added to modify portions off the master files.

That works every time and is fast and requires intuitive skill of which Gary has tons as a long time news photographer.
My only interest with this comment was to focus on problem areas. With a clean exposure it is not particulary important. But from a pedagogical standpoint I consider it fundamental to always start with the big picture and then specialize to the simple methods that usually work. In essence, what it provides is a sense of direction to look in when problems occur which skipping this extra step fails to provide.

Asher Kelman said:
My goal is to just to use hues (associated with particular tones at the time of light capture), to be remapped to new tones, to enhance texture, tonality and composition. This delivers the optimum final expression of the concept in the photographers mind. The process is intuitive improved by skill and experience.

I like that. My interest here is pedagogy more than anything else. I strongly dislike approaches to things that do not empower a person to handle problems. I would never suggest this approach for anyone not serious about imaging who just desire snapshots. Sadly, I am not sure how to approach teaching that class of shooter to do things as my education in this stuff was too detail oriented and sometimes one cannot see the image for the pixels. Nonetheless, at a professional level I think approaches that give a direction to look in when the usual fails is what gives someone a robust toolset and the ability to get the shot.

all the best,

Sean
 

Ray West

New member
what goes round, comes round

Hi Gary,

If you have an image, not on your gallery, not seen before, of a stone god or goddess, if you post the raw file, how about if Asher and Sean apply their individual processing techniques, and then you can decide which you think is the most appropiate for the results you want.

Is this OK?

Best wishes,

Ray
 
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