Found a new spot to shoot pictures

[Jim Olson]

I shot this from just holding the camera down and pointing it. I took a few shots but I liked this one.

 

[Tom dinning]

Post the rest, Jim.
I can’t work out if it’s my bad taste or yours but the shot here seems like the wrong one.

 

[Jim Olson]

Here it is from a little farther back

 

[Dr Klaus Schmitt]

nice spot!

 

[Asher Kelman]

I shot this from just holding the camera down and pointing it. I took a few shots but I liked this one.

I really thought there was a rabbit on the left, (not quite in focus), standing on its hind legs and facing to the right, LOL!

But I do prefer your shot from further back.

I miss the rest of the trees and sky above!

But this is an interesting and nice choice for photography.

Is it near you?

If so, this place holds much promise!

That “P” setting would keep everything in focus for you!

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

That “P” setting would keep everything in focus for you!

Asher

The P setting has nothing to do with focus or depth of field. If you are referring to Program Mode that is.

 

[Asher Kelman]

The P setting has nothing to do with focus or depth of field. If you are referring to Program Mode that is.

You make an interesting point! It can alter shutter speed, ISO and aperture to endure a good exposure! Well, it should recognize objects near and far and so avoid any aperture like 1.4 where the depth of focus is so narrow! It analyses the scene and it could be kind and reduce the aperture to say 5.6, 8.0 or even f11. But it actually doesn’t!


So, Jim,

Using “P” with objects near and far: alter the aperture to say f8 and everything will be better in focus.


Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

You make an interesting point! Well, it should if it analyses the scene.

Is this a “standard” for all cameras just to deal with correct exposure and movement?

What about “A”?

Seems pretty awful if it can’t use depth information!

Asher

Program mode simply selects both the Aperture and Shutter speed for you.

Just like Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority modes, all 3 modes ( P/A/S ) select the identical exposure value for the scene based on the chosen ISO setting.

I don’t know how to put it simply. Try this: point your camera at a scene. If the camera is set to P mode and a proper exposure is determined by the camera to be f5.6 @ 1/250’th. If you switch your mode to A and set your Aperture to f5.6, the proper exposure determined by the camera is the same f5.6 @ 1/250’th. If you switch your mode to S and set your shutter speed to 1/250’th, the proper exposure determined by the camera is the same f5.6 @ 1/250’th. There is only ONE proper exposure value determined by the camera. A and S modes allow for shifting the Aperture or shutter speed values to your preference. But in Program mode you can also shift the result toward a more open aperture or faster shutter speed if you choose to, but the exposure value will always be the same. They are all auto exposure modes producing the same result.


Then —— because the camera can get fooled by lighting in a scene - or if you have a preference toward a darker or lighter look than the camera determines is correct —— you can bias that exposure using Exposure Compensation in any of those modes. Or totally override the exposure value the camera determines is correct, by using M (Manual exposure).

Program doesn’t affect shooting modes - doesn’t analyze scenes. That is what Auto or iAuto setting does.

 

[Robert Watcher]

You make an interesting point! It can alter shutter speed, ISO and aperture to endure a good exposure! Well, it should recognize objects near and far and so avoid any aperture like 1.4 where the depth of focus is so narrow! It analyses the scene and it could be kind and reduce the aperture to say 5.6, 8.0 or even f11. But it actually doesn’t!


So, Jim,

Using “P” with objects near and far: alter the aperture to say f8 and everything will be better in focus.


Asher

P (Program Mode) doesn’t alter ISO. It is essentially identical to using Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority modes. I often prefer P when shooting events in drastically changing lightning conditions, because I won’t accidentally blow out a shot if I have left my lens wide open and move into a brightly lit area that allows too much light in. In such a situation when in Program mode, the Aperture setting would close down by how ever many stops were needed for correct exposure Within the parameters of the ISO setting being used. I don’t have to think about it and have unpleasant surprises.


As for ISO. You either manually set ISO to your choice or set the camera to Auto ISO - which is how my camera is set.


———

When you are suggesting to Jim to use P and f8, if control is needed - that is when you use A and set the Aperture to f8 or even smaller (f11/f16) depending on the focal length and distance your lens is from the subject both near and far.



————

For anyone who wants to complain about these more lengthy responses —— note that whole chapter in books are written on this very subject. This is short and simplistic by comparison. LOL

 

[Jim Olson]

View attachment 3307


I really thought there was a rabbit on the left, (not quite in focus), standing on its hind legs and facing to the right, LOL!

But I do prefer your shot from further back.

I miss the rest of the trees and sky above!

But this is an interesting and nice choice for photography.

Is it near you?

If so, this place holds much promise!

That “P” setting would keep everything in focus for you!

Asher

I see the rabbit!!! lol

I will be going back to this spot and yes it is only 3 or 4 miles from my house.
I almost always shot in "P" but my camera was having a hard time focusing so to get the shot I just switched from Auto Focus to Manual Focus

 

[Robert Watcher]

I see the rabbit!!! lol

I will be going back to this spot and yes it is only 3 or 4 miles from my house.
I almost always shot in "P" but my camera was having a hard time focusing so to get the shot I just switched from Auto Focus to Manual Focus

may I ask if you are trying to shoot in RAW And then trying to correct in software? I just cannot understand how you are getting these colour fringing, crazy hdr style colour shifts, and poor image quality because lack of definition and clarity in all of your photos. Unless you happen to have a totally defective camera sensor or lens, but I just can’t see that. In another post I gave solid recommendations related to starting with basics - get a good image out of camera. That includes nailing the exposure by using plus and minus exposure compensation (an essential skill to good IQ). It doesn’t matter whether you use P, A, or S modes (I just realized that A is called Av and S is called Tv on Canon cameras). All are the same.


https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/in...earch&viewlocale=en_US&searchid=1567691387551

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http://www.normankoren.com/EOS-10D_1A.html


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[Jim Olson]

may I ask if you are trying to shoot in RAW And then trying to correct in software? I just cannot understand how you are getting these colour fringing, crazy hdr style colour shifts, and poor image quality because lack of definition and clarity in all of your photos. Unless you happen to have a totally defective camera sensor or lens, but I just can’t see that. In another post I gave solid recommendations related to starting with basics - get a good image out of camera. That includes nailing the exposure by using plus and minus exposure compensation (an essential skill to good IQ). It doesn’t matter whether you use P, A, or S modes (I just realized that A is called Av and S is called Tv on Canon cameras). All are the same.


https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/in...earch&viewlocale=en_US&searchid=1567691387551

——-

http://www.normankoren.com/EOS-10D_1A.html


——-

I did go to the link & I will use this the next time I'm out shooting.
At least I know what you where talking about now.
I'm going to go back & finish reading the manual on my 10D