Lookout - here I come : Nicaragua 2012/2013

[Robert Watcher]

I MADE LOTS OF CONTACTS THIS MORNING

Anne is suffering from real bad bruising on her heal, that makes it painful to walk - - - so this morning while Wilma came to clean our home, I headed up our street to the north and east of the city - in anticipation of seeing what was in an area where the oldest Market and the main bus Terminal to outlying cities was located according to Google Earth.

I eventually reached this market. There are three in the city with this being the largest, best and cheapest from what we had heard - but also the most distant from downtown. After walking through all of the streets and cubbyholes so I could familiarize myself with the area, it was time to pull out my camera.

The shots around the market were a mix of candids as I walked along (which I have made Black and White), as well as some shots where people who noticed my camera wanted me to take a picture of them. I took their names, writing them down in my small book along with their locations.

First set are a few of the candid B&W's

* - Something I want to mention is that I have changed my numbering system of the file names so that it now reflects the date and time that the image was taken. So with any of these shots from today and onward, you will be able to look at the file name and determine when I shot the images in Nicaragua time. Example - file 20121129-091933.jpg is taken on November 29, 2012 at 9:19:33 AM

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[Robert Watcher]

A few shots where I was stopped and asked to take the photo. I took their names so that I can return on a first name basis.

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[Robert Watcher]

As I walked along another stretch of road - looking into doorways as I passed - - - I noticed this man working on his sewing machine. Unlike other times when it is common to see men fixing shoes, this man was a tailor making dress slacks and suits with his simple equipment. I tucked my head into the very dark room and he chatted for a while (nothing of which I understood).

I was just biding time for him to get comfortable with me, and then I asked if he minded if I take a photo of him working. I felt his hesitancy with the gestures and tone of his voice. When I asked with a negative connotation, he more or less said fine. I grabbed these 3 shots which he responded as to how clear they were (for being shot in such a dull area I suppose) and I said my goodbyes after asking his name - telling him mine - and shaking his hand.

I just love the character that comes into the image from including the room in the shots - normally pics like this are under wooden structures outdoors or in markets

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[fahim mohammed]

The beginning of a good collection for your journal, Robert.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Robert Watcher]

Thanks so much for the comments fahim.

Actually, most of these images with the stories behind them, won't be going into our Travel Journal (all of my photos are there under the Photo tab). That is Anne's project where she tells her stories related to her interests and what other travelers may want to know.

Fortunately I have a photo forum like OPF where I can share my stories and images that are related to photography and of interest primarily to those who are passionate about using a camera to capture travel or street images. I will also include some of these same ones on my http://robertwatcher.com/journal site.

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I just got thinking related to the last series of the tailor - - - can you image just sticking your head into someones home back in the US or Canada? Not a chance. Of course you likely wouldn't find anything more interesting than people sitting in front of a TV or video game or more likely not at home right?

The reason I have been coming to Central America since 2008, is because this is a photographers dream paradise down here. Putting up with the crazy hot weather and tough physical conditions, is far outweighed by the thrilling photo opportunities that can be realized. Even more importantly for me is learning the value of these people and their culture and developing personal relationships with some of the most humble and ridiculously hard working and pragmatic people I have ever encountered.

 

[Maggie Terlecki]

It's so much fun to follow along with you on your trip. The tailor image is probably my favorite. It's so cool and I wonder what he is making? Inside pockets?

I also noticed several of the women wear these crazy aprons that have tons of embroidery and layers and layers of ruffles. Wild!

I especially like to see, these people that work so hard for little money, yet hold on to their good humor and smiles.


Maggie

 

[Robert Watcher]

I also noticed several of the women wear these crazy aprons that have tons of embroidery and layers and layers of ruffles. Wild!

Maggie

Yes - they are unique. Last year Anne purchased two to take home to our mothers. They loved them and use them all of the time. An interesting feature with them, are the built-in pockets designed for doing business - holding coins, bills, note pads and calculators, etc. Pens and pencils generally always go in the hair. She stayed away from the ones in the touristy areas that had Nicaragua embroidered on them. she hunted around for the most authentic ones that locals would buy.

I especially like to see, these people that work so hard for little money, yet hold on to their good humor and smiles.

Maggie

For sure. The average wage in this area of Nicaragua - we have heard - is $2 to $3 USD a day. We found some people last year who work hard for around $1 USD a day. Last year we asked some city workers who were laying paving stone by hand to build streets - and they said they were paid $45 USD every 2 weeks - - - it is good to have a job for the government with a few added perks apparently. Workers in a few of the big factories in Leon, may make up to $1 USD per hour - but are married to those jobs having to work 12 hour shifts sometimes 6 to 7 days a week.

 

[Asher Kelman]

As I walked along another stretch of road - looking into doorways as I passed - - - I noticed this man working on his sewing machine. Unlike other times when it is common to see men fixing shoes, this man was a tailor making dress slacks and suits with his simple equipment. I tucked my head into the very dark room and he chatted for a while (nothing of which I understood).

I was just biding time for him to get comfortable with me, and then I asked if he minded if I take a photo of him working. I felt his hesitancy with the gestures and tone of his voice. When I asked with a negative connotation, he more or less said fine. I grabbed these 3 shots which he responded as to how clear they were (for being shot in such a dull area I suppose) and I said my goodbyes after asking his name - telling him mine - and shaking his hand.

I just love the character that comes into the image from including the room in the shots - normally pics like this are under wooden structures outdoors or in markets

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #33

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #34

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #35

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Robert,

I'm a fan of these old sewing machines. These machines revolutionized the world as much as electricity. They had major social implications, allowing women to earn money and supplement the husbands earnings and also allowed for mass production of clothing.

I happen to like machines from the turn of the 19th century. Manny of them are still in use!

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

DELIVERING PRINTS

Unfortunately the cable to my excellent Epson PictureMate pigment ink portable printer is missing - and so I am unable to use that printer until I am able to come up with a cable.

Yesterday while roaming the streets, I came across a computer repair store that had a sign outside advertising a promotion for an Epson Stylus T22 4 ink printer, at the low price of $32 USD. Being I needed a printer for letter size paper and general purpose text printing - I snagged it.

Last night I ran some of my stock of 4x6 Premium Glossy Paper through it, using some of the people shots I had taken that day. Surprisingly, they looked quite good. While not a match for my Picturemate, certainly good enough to provide prints to those I have photographed. And much better than the disappointing results I have always gotten when I have been able to find a one-hour lab to print them, in previous years. Of course it turns out their is no one-hour lab in Leon that I have found anyway.

So this morning I went to delivering some of the 40 or so prints I made up last night - walking to the markets and street locations where I remembered the people being over the last couple of weeks that I have been taking the pictures. This is almost the most gratifying part of my photography.

My first delivery was to a young fellow in the Central Market where Anne and I purchased some local cheeses on the first day after we arrived. He was thrilled that I brought him a photographic print this morning and without my knowing, he threw in a few extra small pieces of cheese into the bag along with the bag of mozerella that I purchased from him.

I went to a location where Anne and I had purchased some street food last week, and delivered a print to the lady at the stand. She was very excited and thanked me with the biggest smile. Then the lady sitting beside her, grumpily demanded that she have a photo too. I got out my camera as she stood up and grabbed some banano leaves to pretend she was preparing the dish. I tried to get her to smile, but she was not interested.

So I have the shot to take back to her (not this one) - but what I personally enjoyed on a couple of the 4 shots I took - was the lady sitting in behind admiring the photo I had just given her. I had caught her doing this in the corner of the frame. This one has the image turned toward me as she reads the back where I have included my name and our Travel Journal URL.

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #36​

 

[Asher Kelman]

For sure. The average wage in this area of Nicaragua - we have heard - is $2 to $3 USD a day. We found some people last year who work hard for around $1 USD a day. Last year we asked some city workers who were laying paving stone by hand to build streets - and they said they were paid $45 USD every 2 weeks - - - it is good to have a job for the government with a few added perks apparently. Workers in a few of the big factories in Leon, may make up to $1 USD per hour - but are married to those jobs having to work 12 hour shifts sometimes 6 to 7 days a week.

So, Robert, how do tradesmen manage to pay for gasoline for their motorbikes or trucks? Does this force the poor to stay poor and then entrepreneurial middlemen to hire and transport workers to the job site and a huge profit?

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

So, Robert, how do tradesmen manage to pay for gasoline for their motorbikes or trucks? Does this force the poor to stay poor and then entrepreneurial middlemen to hire and transport workers to the job site and a huge profit?

Asher

Any experience that we have had with tradesmen, is that they come on bicycle or the odd one of motorcycle. We have had plumbers, internet specialists, locksmiths - all were dressed in a clean service uniform with a simple small shoulder bag containing the tools of their trade. The people who drive cars are higher working class professionals and taxi and bus drivers. Taxi drivers have the smallest most economical vehicles. Gas prices are about the same as in Canada - approx $5 to $6 per gallon.

The normal working class, take cheap buses (3.5 Cordobas or 14 cents US) or taxis (10 Cords or 40 cents) - - - but most often walk, ride bicycles or ride in horse and cart with their loads for market. I find it to be a society where everyone is allowed to make an income of some sort. Almost everyone is an entrepreneur - - - that includes half the houses on any given block. People in the rurals walk huge distances to get their goods to market in the towns and cities.

What any local would consider the reason for the poverty are the major natural disasters such as the total destruction of Managua in the 70's - the revolution in 1979 - and devastating US embargoes that crushed the economy during the 80's and 90's. Despite all of these - I have never seen a more happy and contented and hard working people in my life. I am inspired by that.

 

[Robert Watcher]

We took a ride on a small fishing boat through a Mangrove that separates a 22 mile long by 1/2 mile wide island from the Pacific coast. This is a protected area where cutting of wood is restricted to the indigenous tribe - and fortunately I was able to come across a dug out boat operated by a man and his son as they transported wood from the interior of the reserve. There are many species of birds and wildlife as well as nesting on the island for the endangered Olive Ridley Turtle. We weren't able to observe the nesting at night - but did go to a rescue hut on the island where the hatchlings are caught as soon as they emerge from the nest, kept in moist sand and then released that night into the ocean. The new turtles there were around 5 hours old and strong my wife said.

Boy on front of fishing boat

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #37


Man and sons heading into the Mangrove

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Boat loaded with Mangrove wood being transported up the river

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Went though a narrow pass with these tourists in a kayak

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[Robert Watcher]

Boating The Mangrove

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After docking on the island, we walked through grasses and trees across it until we reached the sand - with this simple hut at the entrance

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Deliberately my feet at the tidal pools

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Local boys on the beach

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[Robert Watcher]

The boat operator fought with this Crab, to release him from being burrowed under the ledge of the hard sediment

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #45


Marble sized Hermit Crab walking along a ledge

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #46


Turtle hatchling camouflaged in sand

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Straight out of a Raptor movie

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[Asher Kelman]

Straight out of a Raptor movie

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #48

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Robert,

This is from a nightmare movie of early hominids attacked from the air by giant pterodactyls!

Asher

 

[Jarmo Juntunen]

How on Earth did I miss this series!!! Good thing I realized it now. Looks like you're having a good time in Nicaragua. It's wonderful that you can share these beautiful pictures with us.

 

[Robert Watcher]

How on Earth did I miss this series!!! Good thing I realized it now. Looks like you're having a good time in Nicaragua. It's wonderful that you can share these beautiful pictures with us.

Thanks so much Jarmo.

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Crazy looking creature for sure Asher - I caught the Pelican landing on some high dense trees at the edge of the river.

 

[Asher Kelman]

We took a ride on a small fishing boat through a Mangrove that separates a 22 mile long by 1/2 mile wide island from the Pacific coast. This is a protected area where cutting of wood is restricted to the indigenous tribe - and fortunately I was able to come across a dug out boat operated by a man and his son as they transported wood from the interior of the reserve. There are many species of birds and wildlife as well as nesting on the island for the endangered Olive Ridley Turtle. We weren't able to observe the nesting at night - but did go to a rescue hut on the island where the hatchlings are caught as soon as they emerge from the nest, kept in moist sand and then released that night into the ocean. The new turtles there were around 5 hours old and strong my wife said.

Man and sons heading into the Mangrove

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #38​

Robert,

What kind of tree is this impressive dug-out boat made from? This implies a huge amount of labor and craft, likely handed down for centuries!

Went though a narrow pass with these tourists in a kayak

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #40
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Aren't there a lot of biting bugs there? Those bare legs seem like an invitation!

Asher​

 

[Robert Watcher]

Asher - we have not yet found out what the wood is for the dugout boats and canoes. Surely we will come across that in time. As for bugs - - - we are amazed at how few there are. Even when we have been warned to put on insect repellant, we have yet to need it.

 

[Robert Watcher]

NIGHT AND MOTION

Last night I pulled out my small Olympus E-PL3 while we had dinner downtown as the light was getting low - as well as I walked home. I steadied the camera against walls and poles while letting the shutter speed reach levels as low as 1/8'th of a second

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[Robert Watcher]

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[Robert Watcher]

NICARAGUA - LAND OF VOLCANOS
I was fortunate to be introduced to an empty field in a poor Barrio to the north of the city of Leon - - - which provided a spectacular and unobstructed view of two of the volcanos that reside to the north of the city. Using a 300mm equivalent lens, I walked across the field to get a vantage point that would allow the trees, flowers and vegetation to frame my shots

The top image is of Volcan Telica which is known for its constant steam cloud. The bottom image is of Volcan San Cristobal, which erupted a couple of months before our coming down this year. In September when it happened, we kept a close eye on what was going on being that it is only about 20 miles north west of where we are living. This was one of the reports we followed from CNN : http://edition.cnn.com/2012/09/08/world/americas/nicaragua-volcano/index.html

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[Asher Kelman]

Robert,

How much do you need to spend a day? do you hire any locals in your travels?

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

Robert,

How much do you need to spend a day? do you hire any locals in your travels?

Asher

The only time we are spending money for travel, will be to pay for buses, taxis or boats to take us to our destinations. Buses around the city are very inexpensive at 3 1/2 Cordoba or around 15 cents USD. While we used taxis in Granada Nicaragua last year, they are twice the price in Leon at 20 Cordobas or around 85 cents USD for each person - - - and so we haven't used them yet. Buses to go to different cities and towns can vary, but still may be only $1 USD per person to maybe $3 or $4 USD per person each way.

We try our best to support local people close to us and who we have made friends with, by purchasing from from those that go by our home with fruit or tortillas each day, and from the pulperias that are on every street selling milk or eggs or bathroom tissue and whatever else they may have - same with large jugs of water and gas for our stove. Our living budget while here, is $600 USD per month and $280 of that will for the rent of our home. We are easily staying within that so far - even when eating out at times and traveling and splurging on the odd thing.

This time I am not going out every day to shoot and put together stories as I have in previous years in Nicaragua and Costa Rica. Being we are here for a much longer time, I do not feel the need for wearing myself out to the same degree I have in other years. Although I do always have my camera with me just in case - and I keep very good notation of anything of interest that I may come across or names and details of people I meet or talk to.




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[Maggie Terlecki]

Thanks for sharing more interesting stories and photos, Robert. It's a joy to come here and find you have posted. I was also interested in the dugouts as Asher was, but couldn't find which hardwood tree they used, perhaps they use whatever is available. I did find that they are probably not using antique boats, as over time places in the wood where there were branches etc., become weak and need to be patched and can only be used for a limited time. Apparently they carve out fresh ones all the time.

I can see why you would visit here and how you can stay so long, at those prices and you seem to be eating well and having a great time. So much to see, so many people to learn about. I think, also, that it is commendable that you spend your money locally to support the people that you have made friends with.

 

[Robert Watcher]

STREET MECHANIC

While walking along I passed by a man sitting in front of his house with his wife in the doorway as well as another woman with a couple of kids playing. At first I just figured it was someone tinkering with their car - and so didn't pay much attention. Half a block on, I happened to look back and noticed that the man had a huge assortment of tools laid out on the ground and was actually rebuilding a carburetor.

I couldn't let the opportunity pass me by and so headed back and asked if I could take some photos of him working. Further conversation while shooting, allowed me to find out that his name was Fernando Louisia and that his job was being a mechanic - - - which he had been doing for 46 years.

The little boy came up and started pulling on my leg and I grabbed a shot of him. I showed his mother the back of the camera and then the shy little girl allowed me to take her picture as well. When I was done shooting, I asked him to look at me so that I could get a nice portrait for him. I let him know that I would be back to bring him a print. He told me to leave it with his wife at the house.

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[Robert Watcher]

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[Asher Kelman]

STREET MECHANIC

While walking along I passed by a man sitting in front of his house with his wife in the doorway as well as another woman with a couple of kids playing. At first I just figured it was someone tinkering with their car - and so didn't pay much attention. Half a block on, I happened to look back and noticed that the man had a huge assortment of tools laid out on the ground and was actually rebuilding a carburetor.

I couldn't let the opportunity pass me by and so headed back and asked if I could take some photos of him working. Further conversation while shooting, allowed me to find out that his name was Fernando Louisia and that his job was being a mechanic - - - which he had been doing for 46 years.

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #59

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #60

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #61

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Robert,

I enjoy this kind of focus on one person and you stopping and letting him know how you salute his industry and that's a great think in my book!

Asher

 

[Asher Kelman]

STREET MECHANIC

While walking along I passed by a man sitting in front of his house with his wife in the doorway as well as another woman with a couple of kids playing. At first I just figured it was someone tinkering with their car - and so didn't pay much attention. Half a block on, I happened to look back and noticed that the man had a huge assortment of tools laid out on the ground and was actually rebuilding a carburetor.

I couldn't let the opportunity pass me by and so headed back and asked if I could take some photos of him working. Further conversation while shooting, allowed me to find out that his name was Fernando Louisia and that his job was being a mechanic - - - which he had been doing for 46 years.

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #59

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #60

Robert Watcher: Nicaragua #61

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Robert,

I enjoy this kind of focus on one person and you stopping and letting him know how you salute his industry and that's a great thing in my book!

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

Robert,

I enjoy this kind of focus on one person and you stopping and letting him know how you salute his industry and that's a great think in my book!

Asher

You know Asher - - - I just thought it was amazing to see a tradesman doing his work while squatted down by the curb of the sidewalk in front of his house. Something I can't imagine ever seeing at home.

My approach to him after asking if I could take pictures of him working - was to sit down on the low curb just a few feet beside him - this not only gave me a very good angle for taking my shots from, but I feel that it got me down to his level for a more "personable" and "comfortable" encounter, much like I do when shooting children in portrait sessions. I think it worked, as he opened up to me and after I engaged him in some conversation (while I kept shooting) - I grasped his hand with both of mine when leaving and thanked him. He was a little embarassed being his hands were filthy as any mechanics hands would be - but I know he appreciated the gesture.


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