Cem_Usakligil
Well-known member
This one was taken in a small town in the Northern area of Turkey. The whole shop was as big as shown in the picture. He sat there all day long mending shoes.
Shoemaker (scanned from a Fuji Provia slide):
.
Just a quick answer, but I think we should start a separate topic on scanning elsewhere ;-).
I scan slides using a dedicated film scanner, the good old Canon FS4000US. It scans at 4000 dpi native resolution. I can usually see grain in scanned film, so it has more than enough resolution. Results are 6000x4000 pixel files (24 MP!). A full scan takes 2-3 minutes, longer if I do multiple exposure and IR dust/scratch correction.
I use my favourite software, the VueScan, which can be configured in various ways.
I have created LightRoom "profiles" using IT8 targets. I scan the slides as RAW (DNG) files and also output to jpg for instant use if needed. I then import the DNGs into LR and apply the previously created profile (one for each film type) to colour correct. It works very well.
Grain/noise and dust/scratches are the main productivity killers. It can take a lot of PP time to correct them. Also, a proper sharpening of end result is not always achievable due to grain/noise. You end up amplifying it instead.
Shall you create a new thread or shall I do that?
Cheers,
Shoemaker (scanned from a Fuji Provia slide):
.
Hi Asher,...
How are you scanning your film? Also what software do you use?
..
Just a quick answer, but I think we should start a separate topic on scanning elsewhere ;-).
I scan slides using a dedicated film scanner, the good old Canon FS4000US. It scans at 4000 dpi native resolution. I can usually see grain in scanned film, so it has more than enough resolution. Results are 6000x4000 pixel files (24 MP!). A full scan takes 2-3 minutes, longer if I do multiple exposure and IR dust/scratch correction.
I use my favourite software, the VueScan, which can be configured in various ways.
I have created LightRoom "profiles" using IT8 targets. I scan the slides as RAW (DNG) files and also output to jpg for instant use if needed. I then import the DNGs into LR and apply the previously created profile (one for each film type) to colour correct. It works very well.
Grain/noise and dust/scratches are the main productivity killers. It can take a lot of PP time to correct them. Also, a proper sharpening of end result is not always achievable due to grain/noise. You end up amplifying it instead.
Shall you create a new thread or shall I do that?
Cheers,
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