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Today I received the Canon* EF 500mm f/4.0L IS…

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Thanks a lot Chuck
As usual clear and informative informations.
In the case of the EF500mm f/4L IS USM, is the front element easily changeable? or should the lens be sent back to a Canon repair center?
I mean, can a local lens dealer do this...
 
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nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Bonjour Bart
The workflow you have described is the method I use...
Cleaning routine after a shoot is done everytime on lenses and body, usualy onboard the chase boat when we sail back to port.
I use a fresh water wet cloth to rinse and dry all parts includung the UV filter on the front lens with a dry cloth (or paper roll usually found in our kitchen like this one)

This is a soft and gentle unsalting/drying method used for all my gear that looks like new (except the flash horse shoe that always get some paint off, but this is not due to "at sea" shooting).

I strongly suspect that the UV filters get somewhat "sanded" by the frequent use of paper (like above) used without prior rinsing, when shooting action, we sometimes are shooting with permanent (to say the least!) seawater sprays that I do have to dry instantly...

Have a great day

Hi Nicolas,

Just wondering about the need to replace filters, do you have any idea why they change so rapidly? Could it be some kind of mold, or oxidation/deposit due to salt water (spay or atmosphere)? Knowing the reason might help to avoid the cause.

Anyway, I'd asume your lens could benefit from a cleaning routine after each job in hostile atmosphere, if that's the source. Pec*Pad with Eclipse, or a pre-'wipe' with distilled water or VisibleDust's 'Lens Clean™', should allow to spare the front lens coating of the 500mm, yet remove a film deposit and dry the lens to avoid mold if kept in a relatively dry enclosure when not in use.

The thing worrying me most might be salt crystals that could scratch the coating unless dissolved before wiping (I'm not suggesting you lick the front element clean before wiping, but my pair of spectacles fare well under such treatment when sailing
tongue.gif
). Maybe you'll need to resort to something like Opticlean which avoids all wiping action.

Bart
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
I'd want to change the front element after say 2 years of salt water work and have everything checked.

Is the UV filter a drop in near the back of the lens? If so, do you put tape over it to keep it dry?

I's get a box of tissues from the optical supply store so you don't need to use these kitchen towels!

Asher
 

Alan T. Price

New member
get yourself a ball head.

If you are going to use the lens with a monopod then get yourself a decent ball head to go with it. Panning feature is not required as the monopod can be spun around, but you will want the ability to point the lens upwards or downwards unless you just sit on the sidelines of a sports field all day. You also want to be able combine the movements so that you can pan diagonally to follow birds in flight, for example.

A ball head set up with just the right tension lets you move the lens in any direction and hold the monopod in any angle, so you don't need to have it vertical. A vertical monopod is inherently unstable (easily proven - just let it go). Better to lean it towards you or across your legs so there is some weight against it to provide stability. Once you do this the ball head really becomes handy. You can still pan up/down/sideways in any combination regardless of the angle of the monopod.

I happen to use a Manfrotto 468 (I think - the one with the fluid adjustment). I bought that head to use it on a tripod too but so far I have only used a monopod with my 300 f/2.8 plus TC.

A gimbal head on a tripod would be great but it is more appropriate if you are setting up at one location for a while. The monopod / ball head option is better if you are roaming around a lot such as when looking for birds up trees.
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Thanks Alan for your recommendation, I'll keep in mind! but needs to make some money now!

Paning is not my first concern as the birds I shoot (don't worry Asher, not with a gun!) are not that fast.
But, as I mainly shoot from boat or helicopter, a ball head might help.

I do have one for my tripod (for shooting interiors) but I wonder if I'd like to change the friction brake setting each time I change from mono to tripod... anyway for a try it may be the right solution...

Thanks again


Have a great night down under!
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
I was yesterday on a quite difficult shoot in the Golfe de Saint-Tropez.
Why?
A very small shake/chase boat to shoot a beautifull 63 footer.
Low grey sky
Haze... hmmmm

and suddenly a sun beam for a few minutes...

Unfortunately I cannot post now any pics of this, but I will as soon as I can.
That 500 mm is as amazing to me as was the Sigma 12-24 when I discovered it.

Opening to new compositions, a new way of tracking power and... beauty (BTW we had a beautiful Russian Blonde model on board...)

Yes teasing!
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Nicolas,

I discovered late the 3 pictures at Saint Tropez.

These are wonderful. So different but related. The first present a hot bright water surface and a distant set of sails beyond the catamarine.

The next is idyllic. The layered hills bathed in mist provides a pastel background to a dark blue distant and aquamarine near-field sea. Embedded in the lighter blue, are 3 fine ships sails down and apparently at anchor in the bay.

Now we realize the whole picture is made of shades of blue. It is a very restful picture too but with a feeling that we are home.

The last picture attests to your choice of this lens for your work. This Sigma draws very well and the distortion that may be there is hidden in scenes like this. The proximal sea side scene is delivered well with enough detail and the distant horizen with the same boats are presented with appropriate softness.

Perhaps more contrast would enhance the linear cloud pattern. I doubt that this picture has been extensively photoshopped.

I would love to be able to see more of the pastel layering of the hills seen with the 500 4.0. I don't know whether or not this is possible.

I now need that 500 4.0!

Asher
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Thanks Asher

May I suggest some corrections?
This is not Saint-Tropez but Ibiza (Balearic Island in Spain)
We say catamaran, not catamarine ;-)
the 24 mm shot was made with the Canon L 24-70, not the 12-24 Sigma

No Photoshop here only my sharpening action (and export for the web) on the tif file (batched) extracted from RAW with C1.

Some more?

_G8A4873.jpg


_G8A4846.jpg


and, for the end, Mona Lisa? (3200 ISO - Canon L 24-70 @ 70 mm hand held at 1/8s)

_G8A4164.jpg
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
You definitely want some sort of gimbal head for that lens. Probably the least expensive option is the Bogen/Manfrotto 3421. I don't how how good it is.

Nill
~~
www.toulme.net

Bonjour Nill

after having tried the 500 mounted straight on the monopod… got seasick after 20 minutes! and very difficult to frame accurately.
So I went yesterday to my local dealer and I bought this Bogen Manfrotto 486RC2 for a try, not an expensive try anyway!

I'll post later if it does its work as expected.

Have a great day
 

Alan T. Price

New member
My guess is that you'll want a ball head that offers better friction adjustment so that you can set it up just like you do on your tripod. i.e. it won't be locked solid, it won't be flapping loose, but it will have just enough friction to allow smooth movement of the lens without dragging the monopod around.

A lot depends on how you use your monopod. Ideally it will be leaning against you or wedged aganst one of your feet and across the opposite leg. Both techniques let you and the monopod form a relatively solid support - unlike just parking the lens on top of a vertical and hence unstable monopod. Having locked the monopod in you need the flexibility of movement in the ball head but it has to be smooth and firm or it will cause problems. You don't want to be fighting the monopod because the ball head is too tight.
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Thanks Alan for your advice
It is I think completely correct.

I know that this Bogen Manfrotto 486RC2 is a bit "small" and that the strength of friction is not really "adjustable", but I want to check (for a "low" price) first that the system is what I need.

Why don't I go directly to a much better ballhead?
Because I shoot 99% of time from a boat, sometimes from a small (though 15 feet) "dinghy" so I have to care with my 3 legs (mine + monopod).
In the same time as shooting I also have to care about my very own… verticallity!

Then if I feel it's Ok I'll certainly go the right ballhead.

I've already checked that I need a head for the monopod…
 
Why don't I go directly to a much better ballhead?
Because I shoot 99% of time from a boat, sometimes from a small (though 15 feet) "dinghy" so I have to care with my 3 legs (mine + monopod).
In the same time as shooting I also have to care about my very own… verticallity!

I'm wondering if a Wimberley Head isn't a better solution, although I don't have experience how it works on a non-vertical monopod mount.

I imagine if you lock your 2+1 legs in a stable position (without piercing the inflatable dingy ;-) ) then gravity will stabilize the lens+body and mild friction will ensure smooth panning as you target the boat. You might still need some adapter to get the best orientation on the monopod, but once settled then that can be fixed in position.

Bart
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Hi Bart
unfortunately this one won't work as I need to be able to move in all directions.

While shooting, I am standing on something moving up and down rolling from left to right and from front to back, shooting a boat doing the same but not in the same chronology!
Plus sometimes I'm going fast while the chased boat is slow (the contrary happens also!).

Gravity is never in the same direction… ;-) well, it is, but not me!!!
 

Ray West

New member
Hi Nicolas,

I think you need to look for the solution in an entirely different direction. Get away from what is available from the usual camera suppliers. Try and define the problem, and engineer something to solve it.

(I am _not_ suggesting any of the following will help you, but maybe an example of lateral thinking, get your juices flowing, so to speak.) For example, in the video side of things, there is a device called a 'steadicam' - a bit cumbersome in some situations. However, the steadiest platform is your head, well damped wrt. vibration, stays substantially in the same orientation. You can get good stable video from a helmet camera. Go remote - servo driven pan /tilt gyro stabilised platform, pay more for bigger chase boats (IoW ferry seems a favourite for at least one member here ;-)

Best wishes,

Ray
 
Hi Bart
unfortunately this one won't work as I need to be able to move in all directions.

To bad, you're probably going to have to 'compromise' on a BH-55. I just ordered one this afternoon, so I can tell you how smooth it can pan/bob/twist/turn/roll ... in a couple of weeks from personal experience. Besides the large ball, quality machining, and rave reviews, it also has numerical settings for friction. That looks quite useful to reset certain characteristics that worked out in practice. I'm not sure how it would be affected by salt water chrystals though.

While shooting, I am standing on something moving up and down rolling from left to right and from front to back, shooting a boat doing the same but not in the same chronology!
Plus sometimes I'm going fast while the chased boat is slow (the contrary happens also!).

I can imagine that! Although I like Ray's suggestion for gyro gear, I think it would also slow down your ability to pan as you are chasing along side the slower (or trying to catch up to the faster) target. It would definitively build great biceps, but then you already have the 500mm for that ;-) .

Bart
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Hi Bart
Of course I followed your link and browsed the RRS website…
LOL:
One thing that you don’t need on a monopod is some sort of fussy ballhead (or pan-tilt head) to adjust; there’s a better answer.
It's here but this won't fit.

These are really beautifull ballheads. Tell me more when you receive yours… BTW which one did you order? may I ask you the price you paid for?

Thanks
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Hi Nicolas,

I think you need to look for the solution in an entirely different direction. Get away from what is available from the usual camera suppliers. Try and define the problem, and engineer something to solve it.

(I am _not_ suggesting any of the following will help you, but maybe an example of lateral thinking, get your juices flowing, so to speak.) For example, in the video side of things, there is a device called a 'steadicam' - a bit cumbersome in some situations. However, the steadiest platform is your head, well damped wrt. vibration, stays substantially in the same orientation. You can get good stable video from a helmet camera. Go remote - servo driven pan /tilt gyro stabilised platform, pay more for bigger chase boats (IoW ferry seems a favourite for at least one member here ;-)

Best wishes,

Ray

Thanks Ray
Yes I know very well the steadicam system, we own one! and for video, this is really a very good investment. But the cam wheights only 4.25 Lbs.

I don't think I could afford the gyro system!

I think/hope the ballhead will make it… this one or another, what I need to check is if I need or not the friction brake, if yes, I'll have to change for a RSS or similar sophisticated ballhead…
 
Hi Bart
Of course I followed your link and browsed the RRS website…
LOL:
It's here but this won't fit.

LOL indeed, but then they probably don't use their monopods on sea.

These are really beautifull ballheads. Tell me more when you receive yours… BTW which one did you order? may I ask you the price you paid for?

Because I already own some RRS components (one should think about their stuff as a system) for Pano work, I know that it is of excellent quality and very well thought through. There are several reviews on the web that also speak highly of their stuff, e.g.
http://www.outbackphoto.com/the_bag/pauls_rrs_bh55/essay.html
http://www.outbackphoto.com/the_bag/uwes_tripods/essay.html

I ordered the BH-55 unit with no clamp or platform (because there was one PCL in the Pano kit already, remember it's a system), from them directly for US$ 355. One should remember that there will also be a customs/tax fee involved for importing in Europe, so it's not cheap stuff, but it's indeed a joy to handle and it's build to last.

Bart
 

John Harper

New member
Hi Nicolas,

I think you need to look for the solution in an entirely different direction. Get away from what is available from the usual camera suppliers. Try and define the problem, and engineer something to solve it.

(I am _not_ suggesting any of the following will help you, but maybe an example of lateral thinking, get your juices flowing, so to speak.) For example, in the video side of things, there is a device called a 'steadicam' - a bit cumbersome in some situations. However, the steadiest platform is your head, well damped wrt. vibration, stays substantially in the same orientation. You can get good stable video from a helmet camera. Go remote - servo driven pan /tilt gyro stabilised platform, pay more for bigger chase boats (IoW ferry seems a favourite for at least one member here ;-)

Best wishes,

Ray

Ray - Nicolas

I can recommend the IOW ferry!!!! the equivalent of £6 per hour. Very steady platform (might have something to do with the 80 cars on it (gives it a bit of mass)

Its very maneuverable ( most of the time) and manages to dock 1st time nearly always

Only problem lots of screaming kids and i have never actually managed to catch up with anything on it, things sort of drift past in a sedate manor!! :)

And before you ask i wasn't driving it when it had its altercation with the newly installed loading platform :)


John
 

John Harper

New member
Hi Nicolas

One more thought

If you used something like a "flag carrier" you could plant the bottom of the monopod into the flag socket, so it doesn't touch the deck. Adjust the height of the monopod to get the lens at just the right height for your eye. The weight of the lens is taken on the socket and is transfered to your back or shoulders, but takes most of the weight off your arms.
Need to brace the lens.... press down on the monopod and press it harder into the socket.

Your knees are acting as shock absorbers for the boat moving and you should be able to pan with it as fast as handheld, but a lot of the weight is now on your back & shoulders.

John
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Thanks John
that's interesting!


I cannot resist: Should I get a white one like the lens or a black one like the 1DSMKII ?•)
 

John Harper

New member
Thanks John
that's interesting!


I cannot resist: Should I get a white one like the lens or a black one like the 1DSMKII ?•)

Hi Nicolas

Personally i would get one of each!! Then you could change it to suit your mood or your outfit.... or the camera for that matter.

I know it might sound a bit crazy but i really think it could work.

John
 
To bad, you're probably going to have to 'compromise' on a BH-55. I just ordered one this afternoon, so I can tell you how smooth it can pan/bob/twist/turn/roll ... in a couple of weeks from personal experience. Besides the large ball, quality machining, and rave reviews, it also has numerical settings for friction. That looks quite useful to reset certain characteristics that worked out in practice. I'm not sure how it would be affected by salt water chrystals though.

Well, the package arrived yesterday! Shipping took a bit longer because another item that I also ordered was temporarily out of stock. As expected, the BH-55 is very well machined, handles quite nicely, and as a bonus it also looks very nice.

The large diameter ball allows to apply a lot of friction, so I'm confident it can easily carry larger loads (it's rated to carry up to 23Kg) than I currently have available. The adjustable friction works fine when swiveling the gear around handheld, although for a heavy camera/lens one needs to almost apply maximum friction if you want to prevent it from accidentally tipping over when you let go of it in a non vertical position.

In that particular maximum friction position it becomes slightly jerky if you want to pan around. That will improve with use, according to the (A note about break-in) accompanying paper. For normal use it is not recommended to lubricate the ball (because that would retain dirt), but for Nicolas' particular case it might even help (adds a silky smoothness to movements and protects against sea water). The head comes internally lubricated and the parts that need lubrication are (O-ring) sealed. Mud or salt water should be lightly rinsed off with (not submerged in) fresh water.

Of course the camera/lens combo should be mounted at a gravity balanced position, because any ballhead, almost by definition, provides an unstabilized platform. The closer the mounting point is to the camera/lens center of gravity, the smaller the force arm.

Use on a monopod almost seems like overkill (although Nicolas' shooting requirements are different from say a field sports photographer's), but the Arca style of mounting plate at least prevents the camera from rotating loose from its mount, e.g. when carrying it on your shoulder.

For regular tripod work it is a dream tool, with only a modest height (keeps center of gravity low) and a big grippy main lock-knob that locks firmly and it doesn't change camera position when you tighten the lock. I mounted a Panning Clamp to the ball, which is very useful for a good level panoramic setup. It can also be fitted (either by RRS or the user) with a quick release clamp, which works good and can be useful when camera bodies need to be swapped frequently.

There is one important warning sticker on the ballhead, that warns against mounting on the treaded stud on top of the tripod if it has more than 5 threads above the platform. My Gitzo was fine with 5 threads.

Bart
 
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