Travel Virgins - Nicaraugua 2011

[Robert Watcher]

Found Bakery

Anne and I have been very busy and very productive this past week, traveling to more remote small towns and rural areas of the country. While purchasing a loaf of bread in a small shop in Jinotepe - I saw some movement behind a curtain behind the counter and just kind of stuck my nose in to see what was going on.

Turns out there were 2 men hard at work, turning out loaf after loaf of bread and cinnamon buns. I asked the women in front if they would mind me taking a few pictures - - - and she agreed that I could head in behind the curtain to get up close and personal.

It was a very small room and quite a dark room, that required my using 3200 ISO with slow shutter speeds with my Olympus E-3. That is really pushing the camera to its limit - but I wasn't missing the opportunity. Except that I would prefer the image quality from a camera that could handle such high ISO better, I was actually quite pleased that I was able to use slow shutter speeds to accentuate the movement of the men working. Also my access was limited because of the close proximity and my having to stay out of the way. Here are a few

E-3 : 12-60mm SWD @ 12mm : 1/30'th @ f2.8 : 3200 ISO

E-3 : 12-60mm SWD @ 12mm : 1/25'th @ f2.8 : 3200 ISO

E-3 : 12-60mm SWD @ 12mm : 1/30'th @ f2.8 : 3200 ISO

E-3 : 12-60mm SWD @ 12mm : 1/30'th @ f2.8 : 3200 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

RECENT PEOPLE PICS

1 ) E-PL1 : 14-42mm @ 21mm : f4.1 @ 1/320'th : 2500 ISO

2 ) E-PL1 : 14-42mm @ 14mm : f3.5 @ 1/400'th : 3200 ISO

3 ) E-PL1 : 14-42mm @ 22mm : f4.2 @ 1/60'th : 800 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

4 ) E-3 : 70-300mm @ 149mm : f4.5 @ 1/800'th : 800 ISO

5 ) E-3 : 70-300mm @ 215mm : f5.1 @ 110800'th : 320 ISO

6 ) E-PL1 : 14-42mm @ 19mm : f4 @ 1/320'th : 400 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

THE BEAUTY OF NICARAGUA

It is locations such as this vantage point at the top of the Old Apoyo Volcano "Laguna del Apoyo" - where you truly come to appreciate the true beauty of this country.

Anne and I were at the highest point on the outer ridge last night (about 1800 feet or 560 meters above the laguna level) - enjoying a beer and a spectacular view of the massive laguna with the Mombacho Volcano ridge in the background, as well as a fantastic view of the city of Granada nestled between the 2 bodies of water - - - Laguna del Apoyo and Lake Nicaragua.

As the daylight was coming to a close and we had to head back down the mountain for home, I chose this view with a closeby overhanging tree to frame the scene. Taken with my Olympus E-3 and 12 to 60mm lens. Exposure was f4 @ 1/125'th using ISO 100.

 

[Robert Watcher]

Got such a great compliment today. One thing that Anne and I are well aware of, is the explosion of travel blogs in the last couple of years. Virtually everyone that we run into in countries like we are in - HAS A BLOG.

We know first hand the dedication that it takes to make meaningful and readable posts EVERY DAY over the course of a month or two or more. It all seems so simple when starting a blog or in our case a project - - - but the majority of great starts soon fizzle out and it leaves people loyal to viewing them, disappointed.

With our Travel Virgins website, we have taken a professional approach to updating the Journal and have been committed to maintaining regular daily posts and images for the enjoyment and enlightenment of all.

Many times I feel awkward going into vendors or artisans or tradesmen - asking if I can take photos and gather a story for our Online Journal. They have all been told the same thing by countless thousands of passersby, and I for one would find it hard giving of my time to all such requests - knowing that it is generally all talk and nothing useful ever comes out of it.

I did feel that same awkwardness when approaching the owner of a small local bakery in San Juan Del Sur last week. But he graciously accommodated Anne and I by giving of his time and knowledge and allowing me full access to the "behind the counter". How would he have any idea who we are? I really respected his professionalism.

This was the Travel Virgins post that Anne wrote about the Pan De Vida Bakery - http://asifweknow.com/index.php?pg=1&jdb=nic2011&postnum=34

And what a compliment it was to our Journal and efforts when I noticed this Facebook response this morning, from him:

Sometimes I feel like people are always saying that they work for such and such, and I am writing a piece for who know's what, but this guy took the photo's, wrote the blog, and posted is in like 5 hours. Stuff like this is Very rare in San Juan Del Sur!

Eric Slater

http://www.facebook.com/PanDeVidaNicaragua

 

[Robert Watcher]

Hand Craftsmanship - Dying art of tile making

In Anne's research before coming to Nicaragua, she made note of a Tile Factory in the city of Granada - where we could witness old hand made tradition in the making of floor tiles. And so we went armed with a camera and notepad in hopes of being able to document the workers and have an interesting story for our Journal (http://asifweknow.com/index.php?pg=1&jdb=nic2011&postnum=47).

When we arrived in the front door, we were greeted by a man and a woman who only spoke Spanish. I asked if there was anyone who could speak English - and they called over a young woman sitting at the desk. Anne and I introduced ourselves - letting her know that we were journalists and would like to write a story with photos about their company.

I asked if I would be able to make photos of the workers. She relayed the message to the man who had greeted us - - - and her reply was that I would not be able to take pictures. She was apologetic and stated that her father was very worried about their patterns being copied. Anne and I reassured her that we totally understood his concern and would be very careful to take no pictures of the finished tiles or any patterns. She explained that to her father and we were granted access.

While walking back into the shop, she asked if both of us were photographers. I explained that I was the photographer and Anne was the journalist. That was perfect as the young woman focused all attention on providing Anne with all of the details of the process and the history of the company - - - while I had free rein to move around the area where the men were arduously hand making the tiles, from start to finish one at a time.

When I got to the end where the older gentlemen were laboring - the one fellow implied that he would like his large bottle of Coke filled with water - replaced with the real thing. I was more than happy to oblige and later in the day, returned with 4 large bottles of Coke for them all to enjoy.

When I was shooting craftsmen in Costa Rica, I accidentally came upon a look to my prints that really suited the style of image I was shooting as well as the darker skin of my subjects. I am again using it in Nicaragua - - - and the effect is created in Adobe Lightroom, by cranking the "Clarity" level up towards the top of the scale - also the "Vibrance" setting to 80% or 90% - but with the "Saturation" level set very low, just before it turns the image into a Black and White (somewhere in the -50% range).

1 ) Olympus E-3 : 12- 60mm f2.8/4 @ 12mm : f2.8 @ 1/60'th : 640 ISO

2 ) Olympus E-3 : 12- 60mm f2.8/4 @ 52mm : f4 @ 1/100'th : 2000 ISO

3 ) Olympus E-3 : 12- 60mm f2.8/4 @ 54mm : f4 @ 1/125'th : 2500 ISO

4 ) Olympus E-3 : 12- 60mm f2.8/4 @ 12mm : f4 @ 1/125'th : 100 ISO

All Tile Maker Photos Start Here - http://asifweknow.com/index.php?pg=3&jdb=nic2011&crnt=1204&type=1

 

[Robert Watcher]

She's Got Her Eye On Me

Even though no one else was noticing my "from the hip" shooting method with my miniscule Olympus E-PL1 - this woman, who grabs my arm every day when I walk by her (as she asks for money) - - - - has me locked in her sights with one eye open:

 

[Robert Watcher]

Starting with our experiences in Costa Rica - one piece of good will that I have been able to do for many of my photographic subjects - - - is take them back a small print of the image that I took of them. They have always been very excited and appreciative of my effort.

Because I don't speak the language, I am not able to tell them that I will bring back a print - - - but half of the fun of it is a surprise to them. Funny thing is that my shooting them is always a very quick and spontaneous encounter, and yet even after a couple of weeks until I am able to return - they remember me taking the picture.

Yesterday Anne and I were heading back to a town that we visited a few weeks ago. This is a 40 minute trip on the local (chicken) bus. Because everyone in Nicaragua work most every day and always at the same place, it is generally easy to remember the location and then it is just a matter of identifying who is who. That can be a challenge. If I don't see the person I will show the picture and be aided by a point in the direction.

Quickly exiting the market last time we visited - this one fellow who was in the section dedicated to sewing shoes and garments, was eager to have me snap his picture. When he saw the print that I took back, everyone stopped their work and gathered around to have a look and chuckle and tease. He loved it and kept saying "excellante" to me. Of course others then wanted to have a picture taken - which I did and will return with their prints.

I headed out the door and then got thinking that I need to go back and get a shot of him holding his print. I just think that is cool - and so headed back in to the dark indoor room.

Shooting with my Olympus E-3, my exposures were f5.6 at around 1/25'th second at 3200 ISO

Here were 3 others who allowed me to move in close and get shots of them working (and posing):

Not quite sure why this fellow had a Polaroid camera sitting on his workbench. As I left and said goodbye, he lifted it and pointed it at me. Perhaps I'll find out next time:

 

[Robert Watcher]

SUCCESSFUL DAY ON THE STREETS TODAY . . .

. . . a different perspective than my normal shooting from the hip. This afternoon I was being far more deliberate with the 350 shots that I ended up taking - - - not worrying so much that people noticed me - - - and shooting a lot with a very long lens and compressed perspective, as opposed to wide angle up and close street work - - - and ALL BRIGHT VIBRANT COLOUR.

1 ) Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm @ 60mm : f4 @ 1/250'th : 100 ISO

2 ) Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm @ 29mm : f4 @ 1/100'th : 100 ISO

3 ) Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm @ 12mm : f4 @ 320'th : 100 ISO

4 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 300mm : f5.6 @ 1/800'th : 500 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

5 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 300mm : f5.6 @ 1/1000'th : 2500 ISO

6 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 70mm : f4 @ 1/1000'th : 640 ISO

7 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 300mm : f5.6 @ 1/1000'th : 1600 ISO

8 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 104mm : f4.1 @ 1/800'th : 1250 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

9 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 300mm : f5.6 @ 1/800'th : 2000 ISO

10 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 70mm : f4 @ 1/800'th : 1000 ISO

11 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 300mm : f5.6 @ 1/800'th : 1000 ISO

12 ) Olympus E-3 : 70-300mm @ 300mm : f5.6 @ 1/800'th : 640 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

It's Not my Shot - but I think it is an Incredible shot.

My wife took this as I was getting my hair cut late yesterday afternoon, in a little shack in a very poor part of a town called Masaya. It has amazed us both at how tolerant and accommodating this country is of the young children. This little fellow was a neighbour of the shop, who dropped in to ask something of the barber. He stopped and had a civil discussion with him (not a yelp of "get out of here"). In other scenarios we have experienced, local children are right in helping tradesmen as they work - helping carry and clean up - and even left alone when they grab a specialized tool like a cement trowel to mix up their own lump of concrete. It is so refreshing to see.

Great shot Anne - taken with our little Olympus E-PL1 Pen.

 

[Robert Watcher]

Guitar Maker

My research before coming down to this country, had shown that there are 2 well known guitarmakers in Nicaragua - both of them being in the artisan town of Masaya - - - one a descendant of the most well known guitar maker, and the other was trained by that same person. Neither one keeps stock of their guitars, building them as needed. My intention has been to go to their shops and do a story about them - hopefully getting to shoot supporting pictures of them working on the guitars.

Meantime, I was informed that there was a fellow in the north of Granada (the city that I am living in), who builds custom guitars. This would be much more convenient for me and also had more appeal as everyone visits the other well-known shops. Unfortunately I found out that he was currently in the United States playing with his band in such cities as Las Vegas, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Miami - - - and would not be back until April 1'st (the date we are heading home).

Well I was so pleased to get an email from a contact, that he was home this week and so I made plans to head up to his place Monday morning. It turned out that - as with the other builders - he only builds when an order comes in, and so had nothing on the go at this time. But he was eager to pull out some guitar backs, lumber and molds and give me some content to shoot. I was so greatful to him. It was also a treat to find all members of his band there also - and so got to spend time with them and take a snap of them all.

I returned to his house yesterday (actually the house he and his mother and brothers and sisters all live in) and presented him with a selection of 5x7 prints as well as a complete set of web sized files of all 45 images that I had processed from the shoot. The whole family was so excited - giggling and thanking me for the gift. The unplanned and my being spontaneous and adaptable to whatever comes up, has given me far greater opportunities than has happened with well made plans.

Very dark scenario under the overhang of the house where Danny works. I shot with my Olympus E-3 and 12-60 f2.8 lens as well as taking some of the shots also using my Olympus Flash in wireless remote (RC) mode.

1 ) there were half a dozen guitar fronts sitting on a piece of wood. I moved the clamps into the scene and took the shot : f2.8 @ 1/200'th : 400 ISO

2 ) his workspace, with lead singer of his band in the background : f6.3 @ 1/100'th : 800 ISO

3 ) Danny bent down behind the saw to line up the blade and I grabbed this shot of him peeking over the top : f2.8 @ 1/200'th : 400 ISO

4 ) I always want closeup shots of the craftsmens hands using his tools of the trade : f8 @ 1/80'th : 800 ISO : Remote flash held off to side

 

[Robert Watcher]

5 ) I could see the passion in his work as he cradled the guitar to sand and shine it : f4.5 @ 1/60'th : 400 ISO : Remote flash held to side

6 ) a shot of my wife Anne holding the remote Olympus flash. The band members were asking if this was a new technique as they had never seen such a thing before.

7 ) I am a ruthless promoter of those who do good things, are talented and who give so much to me in allowing me to get my story - hence this shot

8 ) we asked all of the band members to gather around for a shot, just before we were leaving : f5.6 @ 1/125'th : 1600 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

A Few Favs From the Last Couple of Days

 

[Robert Watcher]

I have received a few emails and PM's over the past 2 months - asking about recommendations, specific camera bags, rules of thumb - that I may suggest when it comes to safety when traveling and shooting in countries such a Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala etc. And so besides replying to them individually, I thought I should include my response as a forum post also.

---

In any country where there is a high risk of having your equipment stolen or being targeted for a potential mugging, care must be taken when it comes to how much you splash your equipment around. Visibility of a camera can make you a target for sure.

I do not carry my big LowePro bag with me when shooting. It stays at my base accommodations locked up. I have a cheap $15 black sling bag that is always over my shoulder, with it sitting forward over my stomach for easy access to my camera and also to keep the contents protected by my hands and arms.

I always carry 2 camera systems with me when I travel to these countires. A more expensive pro system and lenses when I am not as concerned about safety and need the versatility of that gear - - - and also a less expensive camera and lens that would be the preferred one to lose, if I am going into a more dangerous area of the city or country.

This year my second camera has been a small $500 Olympus E-PL1 that I can carry easily and most people do not look at it as anything serious - thinking I am just another snapping tourist - - - and yet it has the same larger sensor and high image quality as my DSLR.

Under any circumstances, I do not pull my camera out in public around my home base - as all eyes in the neighborhood are always on what I am doing - when I am leaving and coming home - - - and I don't want to give anyone an idea of how much value I have in my room - leaving myself open for a break-in or mugging. If I have been carrying it around the city, I usually put it back into my bag, a couple of blocks away from where I live.

Also my camera strap is always wrapped 2 times around my wrist so that it is secure if someone rides by on a bike and tries to grab it from me. I would never have the strap over my shoulder or even on my neck for that matter. With it in my my hand I can easily tuck my camera in between my chest and the sling bag so it isn't so obvious.

As with everything in these countries (or even if I were in a major city in the U.S. or any other country for that matter) - whether it be money or credit cards or gear - - - I always have everything split up and stored in different places - so that there will be no devistating losses of what I need to function, and that way I can continue with my trip.

Oh - and I always prefer shooting with my wife at my side. We look more like tourists and people want to have their picture taken more readily. I have found it has opened up opportunities that I would not have had if I went in on my own and asked to takes pictures of what they are doing. She also is a talker and keeps them sidetracked while I shoot what I want.

I'm not a paranoid person and I trust people and respect all. I am not naive however and so take care in how I operate - - - especially knowing that being my stay is for an extended period of time, the odds go up of something happening as people become familiar with me and see my daily patterns. I want to enjoy myself and so make preparation so that if I have money stolen from a pocket or have a camera taken from me - - - I am still going to be able to carry on and enjoy my stay and be productive in fulfilling my agenda here.

 

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

I have received a few emails and PM's over the past 2 months - asking about recommendations, specific camera bags, rules of thumb - that I may suggest when it comes to safety when traveling and shooting in countries such a Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala etc. And so besides replying to them individually, I thought I should include my response as a forum post also.

Hi Robert,

Much appreciated, as is the travel report.

Cheers, and have a safe trip home soon,
Bart

 

[Robert Watcher]

Thanks so much for your comments Bart.

 

[Asher Kelman]

Robert,

This one picture is especially poignant.

​

The girl is moving fast, passing walls that show poor in urban struggle, but they're still intact. A car passes between us and the girl, so there's a giant part of the image we cannot see. At first, we think, what a pity.

Come to think of it, the missing part, what's covered, adds a sense of how much we do not know about her past present or future.

This, energetic young girl might be a synopsis of the future for these people you have shown. It's feasible but mysterious and fragile.

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

Very interesting take on this shot Asher. Thank you for your thoughts.

I'm afraid that I am totally the opposite to you with my photography. I am purely a visual person, shoot quickly, and I just shoot without much thought - and if I like a shot - that is all I really think about. It works for me or it doesn't. Not very deep, I know. I could never come up with such a great underlying concept the way you have. I probably should have more purpose to what I do. But after 30 years of shooting on a serious level, it's not likely to happen now LOL. Thanks again for your insights into my image.

 

[Asher Kelman]

Very interesting take on this shot Asher. Thank you for your thoughts.

I'm afraid that I am totally the opposite to you with my photography. I am purely a visual person, shoot quickly, and I just shoot without much thought - and if I like a shot - that is all I really think about. It works for me or it doesn't. Not very deep, I know. I could never come up with such a great underlying concept the way you have. I probably should have more purpose to what I do. But after 30 years of shooting on a serious level, it's not likely to happen now LOL. Thanks again for your insights into my image.

Robert,

For, you, the photographer, (especially one with experience), if it indeed works, then some basic strings have likely been touched. So we start with an important selection from the outset with what you show, even if you might not be aware of all the reasons why you selected the picture from so many others. After all, most folk would have discarded the picture. It's only just in focus and for sure, "It's ruined!", most would say. But then, why did you keep it? Well, perhaps, this: there's a lot that has been refined inside your mind over the years and now you just show it!

That's a great thing because then when it comes to us here and we enjoy it too, but with the added benefits of my own so diverse backgrounds.

Still, I think my own comments might represent well other folks reactions to your work.

Asher

 

[Robert Watcher]

That's a great thing because then when it comes to us here and we enjoy it too, but with the added benefits of my own so diverse backgrounds.

Still, I think my own comments might represent well other folks reactions to your work.

You probably are correct Asher. Please don't think that I was being negative about the sentiments that you expressed about the image. I really found it fascinating even though I am not one to read so much into my work. Thank you again.

Well, there's a lot that has been refined inside your mind over the years and now you just show it!

You know, I have thought about this a lot in the past several years - - - of how effortless it has become for me to take my photographs. Every time I lift my camera to my eye, I end up coming home with many content rich and compositionally strong images.

One person that I have come to know in Nicaragua - who has been following my work down here - - - made the statement to a group that we were talking to the other day, that "Rob doesn't even have to have his camera to his eye and he comes up with awesome pictures".

Even though I chuckled at her saying that - it did get me thinking about how honed everything must be in my head and how fully aware I am subconsciously, of what is going on around me and the anticipation of what will likely take place so that I can quickly raise my camera to my eye or shoot from my waist at the right moment and end up capturing images over and over again - that "work" and many times tell a story.

On reflection, 20 or 30 years ago (my first paying jobs came in 1979), I did have to think and prepare a lot more - - - and there were far more misses than hits (mind you I still have my share of misses).

 

[Robert Watcher]

CAN YOU TELL I LOVE GUITARS?

It turns out that before I head home to Canada, I was able to get to Masaya this week to get a story on the 2 best known Guitar Making Shops in Nicaragua.

Guitarras Zepeda is the main name in guitar making in Nicaragua (and the one that I researched 5 years ago before we ended up going to Costa Rica instead) - - - and immediately beside his shop is the Pilarte guitar maker who worked with Zepeda before starting his own.

Zepeda

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 12mm : f2.8 @ 1/80'th : 1000 ISO

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 12mm : f2.8 @ 1/60'th : 1250 ISO

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 60mm : f4 @ 1/100'th : 3200 ISO

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 14mm : f2.9 @ 1/80'th : 3200 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

Pilarte

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 12mm : f2.8 @ 1/60'th : 100 ISO

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 14mm : f2.9 @ 1/60'th : 3200 ISO

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 23mm : f3.4 @ 1/80'th : 1600 ISO

Olympus E-3 : 12-60mm f2.8 @ 14mm : f2.9 @ 1/60'th : 125 ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

Today's Closeups

Shot with Olympus E-3 with 70-300mm (140-600mm) lens - Shutter Speed Priority set to 1/800'th and Auto ISO

 

[Robert Watcher]

^^^^^

 

[Robert Watcher]

It's almost hard to believe - but our 2 month adventure here in Nicaragua is all but complete - - - tomorrow being our final day of packing our belongings and heading to the airport to return home.

It has been a very satisfying time and while standing over my wife's shoulder as she went through several of the images on her computer that I have taken - emotion overcame me to an extent that I have felt and expressed in tears, only once before in my life (when my grandmother died). I had never looked at my photographic images from the perspective of a bystander before - as I am always involved in the process of creating the images and don't tend to feel or even see the emotion that others may find in my photography.

I am really torn between the desire to stay here in Nicaragua and being back home with my family and friends. But reality strikes and I know which direction I must take. Thanks to all who have followed our Nicaragua 2011 adventure - and also to those who have commented, emailed and have encouraged us along the way. Until next time.


Our online Travel Virgins Journal and all 2000 plus images - will continue to be available online for the viewing enjoyment of all - http://asifweknow.com.