Let's talk about lenses.

[Ben Rubinstein]

Surprise? Ever since the mirrorless world opened up manual lenses have found a new home (and new high prices).

 

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

Hi all,

According to this reviewer, the Minolta MD 50mm f/3.5 macro lens gives almost identical results at f/8 (f/5.6 is already close) when compared to the Zeiss OTUS 55mm on his Sony Alpha 7r.

There seem to be lots of copies available via eBay at around US$ 100.

It's just f/3.5, but imagine stitching with that lens to cover an arbitrarily wide FOV in landscape photography or for its intended close-up range ...

Cheers,
Bart

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

It was when I saw tests done comparing a Canon LTM 50mm from the sixties to a Leica 'Lux Asph when I realised that at f8, there really isn't that much difference between good lenses. Certainly not at 50mm. Bit like the fact you have to work hard to find a bad 85mm lens. Wide angle is a different story. Colour and flare resistance is of course going to change but contrast and resolution, yes but only when doing serious pixel peeping.

 

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

It was when I saw tests done comparing a Canon LTM 50mm from the sixties to a Leica 'Lux Asph when I realised that at f8, there really isn't that much difference between good lenses. Certainly not at 50mm. Bit like the fact you have to work hard to find a bad 85mm lens. Wide angle is a different story. Colour and flare resistance is of course going to change but contrast and resolution, yes but only when doing serious pixel peeping.

Hi Ben,

I know that high quality wider angle lenses are harder to find (for an acceptable price it's even harder). That's why I often recommend to consider stitching with a longer focal length. The longer FL lens is likely to have better quality and acceptable price, it produces more magnification on the sensor, and stitching (for mostly (but not exclusively) stationary subjects) allow to go as wide as the situation/composition demands. It can also be used to get a shallower DOF (because of the longer FL) than possible for a single wide angle image.

Many subjects are perfectly suitable for stitching, it often just requires a smarter strategy when motion is involved (e.g. a shooting sequence direction opposite to subject movement will avoid ghosts). A wide angle lens often is only a requirement for a fast paced shooting style and easy post-processing, and then comes with some other drawbacks (glare, distortion, size, busy backgrounds, too much DOF) as well.

Cheers,
Bart

 

[Michael Nagel]

Michael,

I'm surprised at the flurry of purchases with manual lenses? Is your use so deliberative or do you have some special tricks for use with people such as hyperfocal distance or else small apertures?

Asher

Hi Asher,

This is far less complicated than you think - it was merely putting old lenses I already had back to work. For some, not all, it was worth the effort.

Best regards,
Michael

 

[Asher Kelman]

Hi Asher,

This is far less complicated than you think - it was merely putting old lenses I already had back to work. For some, not all, it was worth the effort.

Best regards,
Michael

Michael,

So you use MF and live view with focus peaking? If the pace is deliberative, results should be perfect.

Asher

 

[Michael Nagel]

Hi Asher,

Focusing works fine using the EVF on the E-M5. I did not try focus peaking yet
This is ok for static or quasi-static subjects/objects.

Best regards,
Michael

 

[Cem_Usakligil]

Michael,

So you use MF and live view with focus peaking? If the pace is deliberative, results should be perfect.

Asher

My experience with focus peaking is that it doesn't work as it is supposed to. It basically shows high contrast edges in the frame, which doesn't mean that they are in focus or vice versa. If an in focus area has no contrasty edges, it does not peak. SO I have switched it off. The EVF of the A7 (and previously Nex7/6) is very good when combined with assisted manual focusing (i.e. the image temporarily zooms in when the focus ring is manually turned).

 

[Asher Kelman]

My experience with focus peaking is that it doesn't work as it is supposed to. It basically shows high contrast edges in the frame, which doesn't mean that they are in focus or vice versa. If an in focus area has no contrasty edges, it does not peak. SO I have switched it off. The EVF of the A7 (and previously Nex7/6) is very good when combined with assisted manual focusing (i.e. the image temporarily zooms in when the focus ring is manually turned).

That reminds me of focussing manually with the original Pentax Spotmatic in film days. The split circle in the optical viewfinder went for hazy to very sharp as the focus was found effortlessly. I never ever thought that there was the slightest issue with getting the right focus. At that time, I only had one lens and considered a telephoto something for real pros only. now, everyone seems to have a plethora of lenses!

So I guess that the expanded view in the EVF of the A7 is going to be even easier than focus with the Spotmatic and that's great news.

Asher

 

[Doug Kerr]

Hi, Asher,

That reminds me of focusing manually with the original Pentax Spotmatic in film days. The split circle in the optical viewfinder went for hazy to very sharp as the focus was found effortlessly.

But that is not the principle of the split image, and typically the image there remains quite sharp even when a bit out of focus.*

Are you sure you are not remembering a microprism collar around the split prism that suddenly got very sharp?

* The reason is that the image one sees in the split prim is not cast on a ground glass at a certain plane, but rather is an aerial image. When a bit out of focus, a nicely sharp aerial image is formed, just not at the plane where the ground glass would be.

But of course in that case these nice sharp images in the two halves of the circle are offset, from which we conclude very clearly that we are not yet in focus. And the fact that both halves are pretty sharp even when out of focus makes it easier to discern that they are not in alignment.​

Best regards,

Doug

 

[Doug Kerr]

Hi, Asher,

Not sure which Spotmatic you were remembering.

Here's an interesting quote from Pentax Forums:

As Quoted from the SP1000 Manual.

"When Your subject is in Focus, the image in the microprism will be sharp and perfectly Clear. If your subject is Not in Focus, the Microprism will Break the image into Many small Dots, much like an engraver's Screen. You can focus your subject on Any portion of the Ground Glass"​

But there were apparently many different focusing aid schemes across the Spotmatic family. Apparently a common one was a spit prism with a surrounding microprism.

Best regards,

Doug

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

Not sure I agree with Cem about the Peaking. Peaking is not as easy to use as it may sound, requires learning how it responds to focus areas, colour intensity, ignoring high contrast false readings, etc. It's also hard to use stopped down. Like any tool, it's good once you have mastered it and it far from being an answer to everything. Especially low contrast lenses wide open as I have discovered. I find that a combination of peaking to get you into the ball park then zoom to touch up the focus is a great way to work if you have time. If not I find it about as accurate as a microprism collar as Asher and Doug have mentioned, i.e. accurate but hard to use wider open than f2.

 

[fahim mohammed]

All very nice, but to me photography is not that much about focusing accuracy but more ( much more ) about the rendering of an image.

Of course, for technicians, this might not be true.

Best.

 

[Asher Kelman]

All very nice, but to me photography is not that much about focusing accuracy but more ( much more ) about the rendering of an image.

Of course, for technicians, this might not be true.

Best.

Fahim,

When one is used to MF, then focus is not the issue as one has adapted to that way of "hunting", as it were. Unfortunately, having gotten used to fast acquisition of focus with DSLR's, those manual focus skills might have lapsed.

Of course, if one still uses a real rangefinder, then, that skill will never be lost.

So yes, under those circumstances, there's no big deal about focus, just consider how to process the image.

Asher

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

A7r, Pentax Super Tak 50mm f1.4, David's Tomb, Old City of Jerusalem.

@f8

@f1.4

@f4

@f1.4

​

Amazing to believe that the first and second images are from the same lens! Regarding the first shot I used to have to stitch with pro lenses and bracket to get close to the resolution, tonality and DR I'm now getting from a single handheld shot with a 50 year old lens at iso 5000. Fraction of the PP time too. It's a pain in the neck camera much of the time but I've rarely enjoyed shooting more...

 

[Cem_Usakligil]

Wonderful results Beni, I'm glad to hear that the camera/lens combo gives you some shooting pleasure after all. I, too, have stopped shooting brackets (except under extreme situations) ever since I bought my D800 and now the A7. Did you receive your OM 21mm already? If so, how does it fare?

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

Thanks Cem. I will have them only later in the month. I have an employee going to the UK who will pick the 21mm and 85mm up for me from my in laws.

The DR on these cameras is incredible. When exposed properly I have to try hard to clip blacks at all. The histogram just doesn't want to touch to the left. It makes working with the files so very easy. Fraction of the time I'm used to.

 

[fahim mohammed]

Yes let's. Talk about lenses that is..

OOC, f/2 or f/2.8, summicron 28mm asph.

 

[fahim mohammed]

cron 28mm asph.

 

[fahim mohammed]

Guess everyone seems to be photographing without lenses here on OPF. Judging by the dearth of posts in this thread. Anyways, got to keep it moving...

50mm ( my fl shall always be given in terms of 35mm FF, unless otherwise stated ) is my favorite fl.

I have more 50mm lenses than one can shake a stick at. I don't use them all, unfortunately.

The following is one of them. I took it to Europe once as my only lens and cam setup. That was all I needed..now I am a little older and weaker.

So with shaky hands, I put this on the cam, put on the camera strap ( I don't do this at home )..my neck hurt..but.

It was a wonderful day..around 12 degrees. sunny/cloudy gentle breeze..

I went into my garden..one does not need a camel to cross it..one step and one has crossed my garden..

Took a break. Removed the cam from my neck. Asked my wife to massage my neck. ' Get lost ', she said. Broken hearted I sauntered off once more in the garden with this heavy contraption over my neck and took another snap. ' What you doing fool ', said my wife ' don't you know better than be carrying stones on your back..'. She wasn't wearing her specs..

I am wearing a neck strap right now..just kidding. Need one though. A massage would do. I shall ask her once more.

p.s. plumb forgot to mention the cam setup. D700, ZF 50 Makro.

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

I just bought another Tak Super 50mm 1.4 if that helps This one UV treated so that I can shoot colour photography, without the heavily scratched rear element and with an undented filter ring. All for $119. I think I paid $80 for my first one a few of years back but when I'm selling L lenses to pay for it, it isn't really bothering me.

My Pentax 85mm f2 arrives on Thursday.

I like these pictures, a subtle palette and contrast.

I've just put my hand strap on the A7r, didn't think it would work on the small camera but not only does it work but it's a joy to use.

Which is your travel camera to use your 50mm lenses on now Fahim? Is it the Leica?

 

[fahim mohammed]

Ben, congrats on your new acquisition.
I am sure we shall see excellent images from
You, as usual.

Hope it fits your needs.

As for me, I haven't had a chance to travel
Much so far. The fuji 50mm equiv is excellent
But I do miss the Leica combo.

Best wishes.

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

Which Fuji body are you using Fahim and what happened to the Leica which you loved so much?

 

[fahim mohammed]

Which Fuji body are you using Fahim and what happened to the Leica which you loved so much?

Ben, I am using the Fuji XE-1 with the 35/1.4 for an effective fl of 50mm.
I have my Leicas; had put them in hibernation. Shall need to wake them up going forward.

Best.

 

[fahim mohammed]

Quite often, sharpness is required. I dusted off my M8 and put the cron 75 asph on it.

It was bright sunlight..so I just pulled back the exposure in ps.

I have been told to avoid spices..Tabasco was not included..

Sometimes one needs sharpness combined with a smooth out of focus areas...

The top one is at f/2.8 and the lower one at f/2; ooh with just -ev in ps.

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

Great choices of tonality!

 

[Doug Herr]

The lens I always take with me is the Leica 280mm f/4 APO, which I've been using for wildlife photos for about 10 years now.

What I like:

it's just about diffraction-limited at full aperture.

rich color quality, great saturation & amazing tonality

the minimum focus distance is close enough that I rarely need an extension tube

the tripod collar is super-solid, rotates smoothly with just the right pressure & balances well

the focus ring's pitch is perfect, the resistance is just enough so that I can adjust it with thumb pressure, its placement is near the balance point and it stays where I put it when I let go

What I don't like:

It's big & heavy for a 280mm f/4

It wants a CLA every two years

Because of the image quality this lens produces I'm willing to put up with the negatives and to work much harder to get close enough to wildlife for frame-filling images.

​

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

That humming bird picture with a manual lens is quite an achievement!

 

[Cem_Usakligil]

@Fahim: excellent pictures, as usual. I am partial to the one from Uskudar, of course.

@Doug: These are really amazing. Especially the hummingbird is really, really good.

 

[Cem_Usakligil]

Ben and I have been discussing our possibilities for alternative lenses on the A7(R). As you have read before, Ben has gone for diversification. He has been shooting with a Super Tak 50mm and he is soon getting a Olympus OM 21mm and a Pentax M 85mm. I have been looking for opportunities like crazy but couldn't find the ones I was after. Then yesterday I have seen an ad for a Nikkor 20mm f/2.8 D, in real mint condition for a great price. I have contacted the seller and went to collect it today. I have then bought a Kiwi Nikkor (G) to Nex adapter, which also allows the G lenses to be aperture controlled. Having been a lifelong Nikon (analog) shooter, I have many old lenses which now became candidates for testing on the A7. One of them really looks like that it'll deliver well, namely the Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm f/3.5 VMC lens. I have some others which I will be testing soon. My initial tests with the 20mm today are promising. I am going to test the 70-210mm tomorrow. I'll post the results here of course. But here are the pictures of these lenses mounted on my A7. Please note that the camera is mounted on the lens (not the other way around) re. the Vivitar lens, lol.

PS: apologies about the noisy pictures, they were taken with my phone camera hastily.

​